Its generally bad due to cooling issues. If you raise the coolant container up it should fix it. (Above the tube)
That’s what I thought. I above the tube and let it run for a bit. Thanks
Is it ok to pulse to test the laser?
Want to make sure everything is working
I can’t be sure. I don’t understand the full effects of the bubble.
@Nigel_Conroy you should be ok if you can lift on end of the machine up you can force it out sometimes
Solved (YouTube)
Loosened tube and slightly rotated tube so outlet was above and bubbles went out.
I need to calibrate and align everything anyway so not that big a deal.
Everything moved nicely and got a positive pulse from the tube.
You should have bought a new house to go along with the new laser instead of having to remove doors! 
True @HalfNormal
My next concern is that the blower motor is actually a 220v blower.
The box had the 220v scored out! and the label is just a printed piece of paper stuck on.
The ebayer has instructed me to purchase a plug adapter and they’ll refund me $5.
On the box it has CZ-TD550/220V
Any of you more knowledgeable around electronics able to guide me on this?
From what I’ve read if it is 220 it will try and draw more amps and either trip the breaker or may overheat and be a fire hazard.
I purchased a bouncy house blower fan less noise works great the one that came with my machine is like yours but 110v but it is loud.
Been working on alignment etc… Noticed the bed underneath the honeycomb…
Removed the honeycomb which was held in place by 4 tapped screws and there’s an adjustable blade bed underneath.
The fan isn’t great. It is 110 volt with a Chinese plug. Travel adapter got it working and it shifts a lot of air. The empellor housing however isn’t sealed so there is air blown out from the body of the fan and not just out the ducting.
So any input on when to use blades versus honeycomb?
Also there’s no interlocks despite being advertised as having them.
Use blade bed if material you are cutting is stiff,ie mdf ad use honeycomb for paper