Nearing completion on the first delta (finally!!). I got the MIC6 waterjetted to 300mm round and slapped a nice 24V 250W kapton heater on the bottom. My issue is figuring out how to attach it at this point. It was a definite afterthought when ordering the aluminum as there was literally zero edge to make tabs for bolt holes.
I have a heatbed plate with 6 pre drilled holes that allowed M4 thread tapping. I use three M4 studs threaded and tightened with a nut to not poke out the top, and metal (steel or pot metal) 2 hole patch brackets attached to the frame (basic hardware for patching something like a picture frame, available at most hardware stores). Springs between heatbed and brackets on the M4 stud, nut below bracket on the end of the stud controls height compressing the spring between. Looks like you have room to do the same with M3 bolts around 35-40mm. It works OK, the studs I have are RC wheel mount studs and too short, barely room for one nut on bottom when 2 to lock it would be better. I only had light springs at the time, but had some wider ones that fit on the motor fan ducts I use, so those are the extras in the image. All together 9 light springs providing a very nice amount of resistance. I can scrap prints off the bed with some force and it moves down a little but returns to position nicely. Use washers between the bottom adjustment nut and the bracket to ensure a consistent return.
Have you seen this mount type https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2213738
I use it on my kossel, printed in abs, and it works well even with the bed at 110C for abs printing. I want to get it machined out of PC at some point in the future.
@MakerGal a number of months! Lots of other more pressing projects going on at the same time, and I also go to school so it leaves me with very little time to work on printers anymore.
@AlohaMilton the problem is, there isn’t enough edge to put screw holes:/ it needs to be a different mounting system.
@Beau_H looks promising! I can print out of nylon or PETG if need be! Thank you!
Does it need to be clamped? My delta bed rests on 3 posts (with FSRs), held in place by gravity and constrained from drifting by a close fit at each tower.
That kapton on the edge is not insulating is it? you have till the copper traces start plus leave 1-2 mm of kapton intact, but you dont need an 4-8mm flange of the stuff to insulate the heater. you could probably fit m4 even.
@Tim_Visible I suppose you would not need to clamp it as you could close fit it to the plate. The clamps could also be put in place loosely to still allow for fsr sensing.