Never showed this to anyone before, but here it is, cheap and low tech (and more reliable but burn hazzard) hot end, 2yrs running with no jams, heats up about 30secs to 230 (overshoots 240), on makerbot Replicator 2
What are you showing actually?
@Krasimir_Nikolov hot end heater, ceramic coated, easy to build, 1st photo (with flash on) shows where I installed it, 2nd photo (no flash) shows how it lights up like led
More info please 
And just in case the overshoot can be compensated look for infos about PID
@Sebastian_Schmidt yes, I’ve set those but didn’t have any effects on the temp overshoot (or I didn’t set it correctly…?), I am using nichrome wires (29awg) measured it on 0.6ohm
@Aria_C_Bramanta maybe this will help
@Sebastian_Schmidt Thank you, usefull link, in more intimate depth with PID, turns out I’ve been setting the I terms too high (accumulates over time) setting it low yields better prints, even less retraction for ooze control
@Aria_C_Bramanta is you’re heating element homebuilt ?
The best part on the link is how to of experimentally found the right settings for your PID control.
I was have build a extruder using NiCr wire from a toaster (that wire is not round its a thin band) wound it around the extruder.
The better heat transfer was bringing worst results
@Sebastian_Schmidt yes, it is homeBuilt, I discover that in the first few of NiCr wound, from thinner ceramic and thicker cores to thicker ceramics and thinner cores, the gap between coil wound is essential (from my perspective) tight and touching gets more faster heat and save more space, I made mine from an eletric stove NiCr wire (AC), tried some with other gauge, but 29 is working good
@Aria_C_Bramanta what are you using for the ceramic ?
I am using wet ceramic clay (powdered) Don’t know about the exact composition but it can endure up to 1000 degrees (or so I’ve been told), but any ceramics will do I guess