New Keenovo 300mm diameter 500w 220v element for my Delta Printer bed. 4min 30sec to reach 110ºC with no insulation. No more waiting for the bed to heat up #keenovo #deltaprinter #3dprinting
Hi @Brad_Smith , I saw from your blog, you built your own delta 3D printer.
Now looking at this New Keenovo, I am curious to know:
Edit:
You have 1 power supply each for the printer & the Keenovo?
What’s the capacities of each power supply?
Thank you @Michael_Johnson , what’s the minimum qty?
Any idea, e.g., if I want 2 different spec. heater pads, do they allow me to lump combinations of each, to the Min. qty?
Hi. I bought the element off ebay. I did have a 24vdc bed powered from a 17 Amp PSU for both the hot end and bed but was tired of the 30-40 minute heating times.
The 220vac is mains voltage but as long as the correct measures are taken there is no problem. I will have the Smoothieboard switching a 25A solid state relay that uses the frame of the printer as a heatsink. There will be a 6A fuse to protect the element and an over temperature cutout in line in case things go south. That together with proper grounding and there will be no problems.
Thank you @Michael_Johnson & @Brad_Smith for your replies : )
I’ve eyed the Keenovo 220v elements before, but was put off by the power they could consume.
I to was worried but since the element heats so quickly and only pulses in every few minutes to hold that heat the current draw should be negligible. The 24vDC psu drew 2.8A fully loaded with hot end and bed but did so for 40-50 minutes to get to 110ºc (not the full current mind you), the Keenovo pad draws 2.2A for 4.5 minutes so should be cheaper to run.
@Brad_Smith could you publish what exactly you used and cabled all together? I have myself a 220V 320cm heat bed from Keenovo with SSR and just connected them. But it seems you made some more considerations in it for safety etc. So I would like to get better ideas, be educated by your concept.
I’ll do up a diagram tomorrow
I am excited that 300mm is common now! Amazon has some that run on 110v, so I think I will order one of those. I think my 12v power supply is only 85-90% efficient, so running it straight off the line power should allow slightly less power usage and much smaller wire size. I also run a smoothie and have had issues with the connectors burning up because of the high current requirements of the bed at low voltage.
220v? Hot damn!
@Jon_Gordon and very very fast
I can’t see what the end of the red wires look like but I’ve always had them terminate it in a 2 pin dupont connector for plugging into RAMPS/ other control board directly.
@Ivan_Hoe You can also email them directly, Johnny helped me out with power specs, made a custom shape per my drawing… In short they’ll do just about everything.
The red wires are from the NTC 100K thermistor and are just bare.
Thank you @raykholo .
I’ll contact Johnny, Keenovo.
@Brad_Smith - yeah that’s how they come stock. Was suggesting they can put a female connector on the end if that helps in the future.
@Ivan_Hoe - just shoot an email over to sales@keenovo.com and you should get him.
if the print doesnt turn out just crank it up and it melts to a puddle of plastic 
Wondering how they want to make sure the insulation between 220v and the conductive plate…risky. Usualy there should be another wire (protective ground) to the plate to make sure the insulation still works. You should keep insulating gloves on 
@3D-Proto When installed the plate and chassis will both be grounded so perfectly safe. I have used silicone heat pads extensively at work for years and have never had a failure yet. My plate will also be fitted with a bi metal over temperature thermostat which will open circuit at 120ºc so in the event of a thermistor or controller failure the element will not be able to overheat as the power will be cut. I use one from RS components, Part# 331-534