Not wanting to hijack any other threads, there seems to be a pretty wide difference between BOM’s from, say, a PrintMi (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:95339), a Delta in the realative middle, and an Ingentis on the high end, from a partscount standpoint.
Is there anything that looks at the different printer geometries and compares them with end results?
The PrintMii, no. Just don’t. I can already tell you that thing is going to have problems with X wobble.
My latent unused CE degree agrees with you. The problem becomes frame stability…it’s most economically obtained with things like welded sheet metal…which the average hobbiest can’t do. Screwing together extrusions is pretty darned good, but economical frames also aren’t easily enclose-able.
That’s the tradeoff that I found, and then kicked myself in the ass for regarding my i3. Spent like $140 to have a custom frame water jet cut locally, built it, and then was like “but wait, I print in ABS…and there’s no way to enclose this thing”.
Well, there is, its just that you have a redundant support structure. I’ll eventually enclose the Ingentis, I’m just hoping it solves my repeatability issues (I’m betting adding levelling to my Delta will improve things greatly, but won’t address envelope and moire issues)
I designed the 3DPrintMi. X wobble exists if you start nudging it in the Y directions or at high speed. It’s actually really stiff in the X direction because of the vertical rod setup. I have built 5 3DPrintMi’s so far and never experienced any X/Z wobble. As long as the X gantry is parallel to the bed and smooth Z travel, you’re golden.
The printer was never designed for speed since speed and print quality are inversely related, especially for Cartesian style bots. The frame is rigid enough to print at 65 perimeter/110 infill. Any higher will give you oscillating artifacts in the X direction.
I also print primarily in ABS. If you look closely, I never implemented a cooling fan into the design because I was solely focused printing in ABS only. I use this hairspray/elmers glue combo that pretty much solved my premature curling issue.
Although, I agree with both of you that a strong frame rigidity results in high quality prints. I merely sacrifice speed to acquire that rigidity despite how rickety it looks.
Good adhesion might keep corners from peeling up, but without an enclosed warm volume the cracking will just occur higher up, splitting layers. (Abs of course). @ThantiK , what have you seen when it comes to enclosing deltas?
@Anthony_White , haven’t seen much re: enclosing deltas. For legal reasons DeltaMaker can’t build enclosed areas - but we were playing around with “dust shields”. It’s rather complicated tbqh, likely requiring some bent plastic for our design, because of the V wheels rolling on the outside of the T-slot (Makerslide).
yeah, not interfering with the carriages / rails is the tough part. I’m thinking of a simple wooden dowel rod / printed bracket frame, wrapped in vinyl, enclosing only the print volume (and not the extruder motor / axis motors.). Maybe a pentagon of sorts when viewed from above, with one face acting as a door (velcro?)
@Chris_Lau BTW, there was nothing negative implied in calling out this design, there are dozens of modifications on a few major types, and this seemed to be one with one of the lowest parts counts.
@ThantiK what about these turkey bags? I remember @Sanjay_Mortimer posting one but never saw any followup - is it good? Worth , say, an overseas order? We don’t have anything that large…
@Mike_Miller None taken. It draws a good amount of skepticism but it does what it’s suppose to do, replicate. The Y carriage is fully printable so no need seeking out a laser-cutter but it does’t hurt to use one. Since I got in on the Misumi deal, I’m currently retrofitting the 3DPrintMi to use aluminum extrusion 2020.
@Igor_Larine They work just fine, they are a total pain in the ass to use.