Notice the gaps in the parts?
Why?
Also too much stringing.
Is your spool really free to turn? I’ve had that happen when mine was hanging up slightly.
I’d try dialing the temp back a bit for stringing, increasing the speed and length of retracts may help to
120mm/s retraction with 6mm length
I’ll print a spool holder next
hmmmm… I would say cold extrusion at first glace, that happened to me a while ago and left when I upped the temp. but the stringing is more of a play w/ retraction settings
Extruding at 200 Deg Celsius w with PLA.
You recon to up the temp more?
210?
Looks like some ringing on the side wall? Could be infill, try more perimeters and see if it’s better? 200 should be decent for pla but some I’ve had like as low as 185, they aren’t all the same. Try a test part at various temp levels and see if it changes? There’s lots of test parts on thingiverse for testing temps etc
What kind of printer is this?
6mm retraction is a bit much, and could cause a lot of problems.
The ringing shown on the last picture could be caused by sloppy belts.
@Rien_Stouten on my Titan driven Bowden I use 4mm at 1800mm/min, never had an issue?
@jerryflyguy yes, 4mm is possible, but don’t try more.
The concept of retraction is to relieve the pressure in the nozzle, you do not suck it in.
I never use more than 2 mm.
A better way is to ’ coast at end’ , a feature in simplify3d, where you reduce the amount extruded before travel.
I’ll reduce this to 4mm, and see what happens. I’ll check if Cura offers something similar to ‘coast at end’
@Rien_Stouten yeah I’ve seen the coast at end button, I’ve heard that it can be worse to tune though? Inconsistent ends/fill on the end of the move, the retract brings much more consistent results? Might have to try it sometime
@Panayiotis_Savva I run my pla at 210, anything less(even 5 degrees) and ill get that result, and my motor will skip al over the place
I’ll give it a try
@Panayiotis_Savva , I have seen printers where I said it would never work, but hey did, and I hope your printer falls into that same category.
But. I don’t trust a couple of things. For starters, that bowden tube. It seems too long, why that curl in it? Is that necessary?
And why do you couple the two Z-axis motors with a belt?That is just wrong.
And that power-supply is collecting dust and waiting for a spill, so it can release the magic smoke. Shield it!
I also don’t think you can get the bed to move reliably with that setup.
I’ve learned the hard way it pays to pay attention to those kind of things.
Your mileage may vary, of course.
Nice wiring though!
I used to have similar problems I was retracting to fast and the motor was skipping steps. My motor has a gearbox (5:1) I was retracting at 100 mm/s and had the problems now with 25 mm/s I have great results. YMMV but 120 mm/s seems pretty fast even without gearbox.
The printer is designed to be exactly constrained.
Bowden tube: Is long in order to get the still movement of the print head. It just curls naturally, I’ll see if I can get it straight.
The Z is coupled due to the weight, and thus the gantry sags if not coupled. They are wired in series, and are always 100% in sync. Much better results once I coupled them.
The power supplies, I see your point. I’ll move then directly under the heatbes, I’ll have to find insulation as not to overheat.
I’ve received my new bed a few days ago. The setup now is just temporary.
A photo attached to give you an idea. It’s not fitted yet though…
