Edit:
I just realized that I made a wrong calculation… I think Cura said this print was going to be 4 days and 8 hours… I think I added 48 and 8. Obviously there are 24 hours in a day, not 12. This would make this a 104 hour print… Well then you factor in that I boosted the speed 50% and I think we’re looking at more like an 80 hour print! This is taking forever! Lol. I should have done some stuff to make it go faster. It didn’t need to be THAT smooth.
Also the heater wires on my print bed broke so I have no heat and it’s possible that the part could just pop off and screw the whole thing up. That would really suck as you can see that I’m over 55 hours in…
The start of a “56” hour print, my longest yet. Let’s see how it goes… Fingers crossed!
A (danger) trick to use in this case. Use some kind of adhesive and apply along the bottom of the layers.
The print will never warp or pop. This you can use it for ABS too. Use it with proper safety glass and safety mask as it creates heavy fumes (if it is heated bed).
Not gonna lie, after the heatbed wiring failure, I’m pretty worried about you leaving this thing unattended. Unattended printing on cheap printers is a serious risk, even moreso now that we know the printer’s firmware doesn’t have thermal runaway protection.
The difference between “heatbed stopped working and my print might pop off” and “fire department has to pull my charred corpse out of the steaming rubble of my former house” is a matter of luck. I think you need to take this as a warning sign from karma/fate/deity of your choice that you need to pay more attention to printer safety.
Checked the batteries in your smoke detectors lately?
@Ryan_Carlyle it should be fine as I just unplugged the wires from the board itself. Essentially I just no longer have a heated bed. As for why they broke I think it’s because of where I have the machine. The wires kept getting bent too sharp over and over. I’m going to change the wiring around so that there is enough slack that the stress isn’t on the solder itself. Also, yes I have brand new batteries. I do appreciate your concern. As far as the shut off goes, why would it be programmed to shut down just because the temp is lower than what it’s set at? I could see if it were higher but the temp sensor was accurately reading the temp and there wasn’t anything overheating.
@Adam_Steinmark it’s not completely solid but the walls aren’t super thick and there is going to be liquid in it so I didn’t want it to deteriate super fast. Also, I can’t print that fast yet (maybe not at all) because I have a cheap printer. The seller actually recommends 35mm/s. As I get it more dialed in I’m sure I’ll increase the speed. I’d rather it come out right than finish fast and look like crap. Also, I had originally set it to 30mm/s and decided early on that I wanted it to be faster so I just turned the dial up. Normally I do print at 100%
@Kevin_Danger_Powers the purpose of the thermal rumaway is not to shut off if the temperature is lower than it should be. If your thermistor stops working it will no longer read the temperature. So if your heat bed is set to say 50°C and the machine is reading 0°C because the thermistor has malfunctioned it will continue to rise the bed temperature in an attempt to reach a reading of 50°C which will never happen and the result will be either a broken printer or a pretty darn big bonfire in your neighborhood. I would seriously look into integrating thermal runaway if i were in your position. I wouldnt care if i lost a print because of it if it can save my house my irreplaceable personal belonging and precious lives. Just keep it in mind ok.
@Kevin_Danger_Powers Thermal runaway detection is primarily meant to catch a dislodged thermistor. It basically triggers when the printer sees the temp dropping while the heater power is on. This will also detect failed heater wiring or a failed-off FET. It won’t do anything about a failed-on FET, but that’s why you should have a thermal fuse on the heatbed.
