ok guys…
I’m trying to justify some investments in high temp engineering plastics. at this stage im like , should i get into that?
besides peek and PC… what else have you work with?
I want to experiment with fluoropolimers… but thats like kind of a research.
Do you have a set end goal for these parts? Printing PC just to print PC is prob not worth the struggle
a few things as bushings for inside the engine bay on a car…
To be fair, im on the “does it worth it ?” stage… titanium heat break, cooper aloy, PT100 and heating chambers aint cheap.
PEKK, PSU, PPSU, etc https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-performance_plastics
But unless you have many need for the application, it will be a lot of sunk cost for what you want to do. Perhaps there’s some companies who do novel thermoplastics working on high temp materials for hobbyists 
Can you print ABS really well already? You’re in for a world of hurt if you’re not already familiar with high-warp plastics.
PC is reasonably achievable on a printer that does ABS well… some of the modern PC blends like ePC from Esun have less temp resistance than virgin PC but are about as easy to print as ABS. Printing virgin PC in a good ABS printer (say 50C heated chamber) is a lot like printing ABS in an unenclosed printer. Painful but doable.
PEEK and Ultem printing requires turning your printer into an oven to print anything more than tiny little parts. I struggle to justify the effort compared to hiring the parts out to a printing bureau.
I can’t recall ever seeing anyone trying to print PFA or PVDF or other fluoropolymers, which is actually kind of odd now that I think about it. Not sure why they wouldn’t work.
As a general rule, amorphous thermoplastics can be FFF printed with the right conditions, while crystalline thermoplastics shrink too much and are unreasonably warpy.
@Ryan_Carlyle i can do ABS fine… in fact… i did better results with it abs than pla for long time.
I live in panama city (republic of panama) so my ambient temp is around 32 C° most of the time.
@Jaime_Lee_weput Ok, get your chamber up to 80C without your printer melting down, and try some PC 
@Ryan_Carlyle
ok… PC.
i’ll try PC first.
PC is an excellent stepping stone. It’s already more expensive than the usual plastics so you get a little taste of the financial pain of the exotic materials, and it really likes and demands heat. But make sure it has 280°C and higher recommended printing temperature. Anything lower is probably compounded with other bullshit that makes it easier to print but it also “waters down” the properties of PC too.
It’s doable, but but realistically, I agree with Ryan, I don’t think it’s beneficial for a hobbyist to do anything more exotic than PC unless there’s a specific reason to. Things get costly, complicated, and risky.
PEI/Ultem - quite a bit cheaper than PEEK, but still has excellent heat and mechanical properties.
9085 and 1010 are both available as printable filaments.
As stated above by others, actively heated/temp controlled chamber is required…