The part right before that I did that. Same code different supplier. It made it all the way great. Sliced a new part with the same parameters and the new filament and got the failure you see.
I have a roll from a new supplier on my door step now so Ill run this code that just failed with it.
@Joe_Spanier Sorry. I did not know it was fully enclosed. As for the temperature adjustment, I myself would probably not go more than 20C more than your minimum temperature, but I have never than that fast. I do not know the makeup of the E3D and what may hold it, but I wish you luck not melting anything or having any issues with excessive heat. I will now open up the video and take a better look at it. It looks too much like an infill issue at this preview size.
@NathanielStenzel No Problem! Im open to all suggestions and not many people have seen my printer.
The Thermistor would go before anything on the E3D. They have you ramp up to 295 first thing with it. Ive printed up to 290 with nylon on it so I know it will work. Im temped to try it just for giggles and to see if it fixes these issues. Cant break it worse thats for sure.
The E3D isn’t affected much by high printing temps, especially with ABS - i’m printing no-name ABS at 260C (and beyond) right now with pretty much perfect results (including awesome layer bonding). Just keep that fan going!
Does the top stay the same size or is it a little smaller at the top? Did you try backing the filament out cold and chopping off the last 1/2" of filament? I ask this because it seems that some filaments have the majority of the filament ooze at a lower temperature leaving some denser filament in the hotend to jam things up. Retracting till the filament is out of the hotend at the end of a print and then extruding a bunch at the beginning of a print may help with that issue.
@Thomas_Sanladerer No name filament? Ok. Watch out for the lower temp ooze with jamming crap left behind. I discovered that issue while using MonoPrice black ABS. I would probably call it simply “filler clog”.
The e3d can handle the heat as long as you keep your barrel cool. My high temp abs prints tend to have a very high level of layer adhesion. I posted about my problem in the reprap forums and it seems there may be some variation in nozzles that have caused issues for a small number of people.
I have two new nozzles coming tomorrow. To try that too 
Im gonna fix this damn it
If the higher heat does work could you post about the problem on the reprap e3d thread?
Can you post a link? Id be happy too.
This may be a stupid question, but where are you getting your E3D hot ends from? I believe that they only come from one place and I think I have heard of others supplying knock-off E3D hot ends.
Sure - http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,197736,page=1
You may also want to post about the problem there as Sanjay stops by to help people occasionally.
Nate I got mine from filastruder, they are a dealer for Sanjay.
Oh yeah…and please humor me and chop off the half inch of filament before your next print.
Mine came from Filastruder too. Same for the nozzles.
@NathanielStenzel I will but I dont think thats it. I usually extrude 100mm before hitting go for that exact reason
I’m kind of in agreeance with trying to disable retraction. I’ve had some old hot ends that I had made from scratch parts, where they would just simply fail because I was retracting, and a plug would form higher up. The E3D is prone to this with PLA, which is why people season their nozzles. But I found on my own designs if I disabled retraction and kept enough filament flowing through, the filament acts as a heatsink and kept the heat from rising in the barrel.
Yeah, turn retract way down - 1mm should be enough.
Is it possible the extruder motor is overheating and missing steps. Sometimes the bounce back and forth can strip the filament.
1mm even with Bowden? I’m ready to be done with Bowden I think.
@Martin_Renold I completely missed this comment. I haven’t tried disabling retraction. On parts that don’t have a lot of retraction I do have better luck.
I’ve been trying to utilize the coast parameter in simplify to lessen the need for retraction. The other thought I’ve had is remove the Bowden and go back to direct drive. It seems Bowden is more issue then its worth.