OK… Noob question here, Can I print petg with no heated bed? If so, what do I need to put on my bed to do that?
I’ve successfully printed petg on blue tape without heated bed.
I’ve been told yes but never tried. Just haven’t had the time.
With a cold bed you can use liquid solvent-free glue and add a brim to the object. Works well.
@Jeremie_Francois Would glue stick work? Is it like printing PLA?
I’ve printed many things in PETG on a cold bed with nothing but blue tape. You don’t even need to really smash it in, it’ll stick just fine on its own.
The one exception to this is an object with a very small footprint. On something with a footprint smaller than about a US dime, you probably want a brim. but then you should be fine again.
@Alexander_Pritchard yep but sticks tend to leave blobs of glue (you can dilute them somhow). The best is this kind of “puzzle glue” imho, shown at the end of my post regarding nylon trimmer line here: http://www.tridimake.com/2014/01/how-to-3d-print-nylon-and-trimmer-line.html
OK thanks
@Alexander_Pritchard oh and better NOT use glue with pla, it will probably stick too much 
@Jeremie_Francois Yeah, I smooth out my glue with some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Works well.
@Alexander_Pritchard water probably is enough. I found solvent-free glues to work well (specifically, they can be washed with water)
I just got a roll of PETG myself, was going to give it a shot on one of my PEI sheets. I’ll let everyone know how it goes.
Once you print successfully with PETG you will keep the PLA for the kids and use the ABS on your drains. The problem with blue painter tape is it lifts off the glass or bubbles under the hot first layer causing edge curl. So take all the tape off a glass bed then acetone or alcohol clean the glass. Do not heat the bed. Load a file, slice then just before you hit print …apply or scribble a layer of Elmers washable glue stick then Hit Print if the bed level, Z height and nozzle temp are good the part should stick and print well. I am using 1st layer of 215 C set 2nd for 210 but fan makes it 205 on unheated bed
210 for petg? That’s pretty low. How’s your interlayer adhesion? What brand are you using?
@Roger_Tee I actually don’t have a heated bed, and I print PLA on aluminum with blue tape, I don’t have a glass bed.
A glass bed is the easiest thing to add from any local glass shop 1/4 " 8.5 x 8.5 plain glass with 4 binder clips to hold onto the probably warped aluminum bed without heat makes leveling easier and no blue tape using the Elmers kids school washable glue stick rubbed on not let to dry. If you want a heated bed then you go to Ceramic Glass with a high thermal shock as the plain glass can crack eventually and avoid using "Tempered " glass used on cheap fireplace doors.
Not sure of the brand of PETG don’t think its Esun but it is orange. I started printing at 200 and it worked but first layer had globs went to 210 was good then 215 came out almost perfect Skirt 3 loops 6 mm out 1 layer with a Brim of 1 mm layer height .2 mm with .4 nozzle and had no layer separation but think I need a little hotter as extruder was clicking near the end as fan was too fast brought temp down to 200 but the print was perfect had to pry part off glass or soak in water. The remaining glue washes off with water. There is a PET T but thats a different stuff. Visit http://filaments.ca my source they have all types Ninja,Nylon,ABS,PLA,TPE, PETG,PETT,HDglass etc. PET G is $36/Kg CAN dollars they recommend 230-250 temp
@Roger_Tee Yeah, glass is nice, but I have inductive leveling. Also I will purchase my PETG at makergeeks, they are running a grab bag sale, 16.50 USD a kilo.