Ok. On to the next *%)@# Challenge! I put in my drag chain with the wire and hose through it. Nice! But now of course I have a new challenge to overcome. Now I notice that when I cut/engrave the right half of my designs dont come out. Well, it seems the drag chain curl gets in the way of the beam! I need a way to have pressure toward the back wall to keep it out of the way. Any suggestions?
Oh crap…I haven’t turned mine on yet have to check when I get home… Picture of your install?.
http://maxboostracing.com/laser.jpg The picture is me in the middle of doing an engraving and you can see the chain is frightfully close to the beam line! If the item were moved up more Id be screwed.
Oh, and yes my air assist hose is kinked, it wont turn that radius, I need to find a spring or something to put inside there. in other words, yes, yet another challenge 
@Bob_Damato I suggest a Air Brush hose with the sleeve removed, makes for a super flexible hose. Onto chain position; try to mount it in a way that the first few links are either perfectly horizontal or aimed back just a tad. Should prevent further issues. Softer hose may cure it all together.
@Bob_Damato Mount it further back on the carriage plate. I have mine attached to the back most screw on the carriage plate. Only issue I have is it gets awfully tight at the back of the cutting bay (i.e. drag chain pushes up against back wall when at Y=0). Can sometimes hear it slapping the back wall when doing fast cuts up that end of the machine.
Use some rubber band going from about 1/3 of the chain to the back-right corner. Not very light and also not very tight I would post a pic but my machine is torn apart for rail upgrades.
@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y If I mount it further back then it wont make the radius and I cant go to my 0,0 point.
@Bob_Damato thanks for the heads up I had a similar problem but did not know it yet. Mine is in the upper left position it was interposing the output of #1 mirror.
I think I fixed it by removing two links I now use 24 links. The mounting position on the head plate and back wall are important in getting the geometry right at the extremes while keeping the chains loop at a minimum. Another improvement I will do later is to move the mounting point on the head plate a bit right to give even more clearance.
I haven’t tested this dynamically as my machine is down while I cut the rear air vent back.
I did not notice a kink in my air line as of yet. I am using clear 1/4 inch acrylic tubing from HD.
I updated this post with this info and pictures:
+Bob Damato I have a drag chain I’m still in the process of mounting, but I’ve have noticed that my chain has 2 different ends. One bends back and the other does not. If yours is the same you may need to switch ends so the chain body does’t curl back into the beam.
Oh, I just remembered to mention that my mounting point for my chain is on the carriage plate at the back screw hole, but the other mounting point is actually on a laser cut piece of plywood that I attached to the right side of the moving rail (x-axis rail). So my chain’s start point moves with the rail also. In case that is of assistance to anyone…
@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y interesting, is your drag chain mounted parallel or perpendicular to it pivot pins.
Picture?
@donkjr I’ll grab a pic & show. It’s a bit of a dodgy setup, but it works.
Actually, after taking photos just now it looks like I have moved it from the backmost screw on the carriage plate. Probably for the same reason you mentioned @Bob_Damato , where it won’t let you get all the way to Y=0.
Will post pics & tag you guys.
Mine goes much like @Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y I think.
@Kelly_S Yep, but more professional looking than mine haha.