Ok so per the suggestions I have gotten I removed the heatsink, sanded down the contact surface and applied some thermal paste to help with the heat creep. I also found that there was a bolt in the way that was preventing the heatsink from sitting flush. That has been ground down. I literally can’t get any better contact with the current hardware. Let’s see how this goes…
@I_m_on_time idk what joints you are referring to but I did use paste between the heatsink and contact surface.
@Kevin_Danger_Powers I hope these changes improve the performance for you.
In looking at your set up it strikes me how similar it is to the configuration I’m using on my printers. One difference however is the minimal amount of contact the heat sink has with the extruder mounting block. I’m using a block that just might work for this and nearly doubles the contact area. Also, when you remove the heat sink the motor stays attached. If this still does not solve your issues then maybe it would be worth looking to see if what I’m using could be adapted to yours?
This kind of cooling bar and heat sink setup works great with all-metal hot ends in the Replicator 1 and 2, but cloners always mess up the critical heat management performance by changing little design details they don’t understand. Basically the whole thing has to be built and assembled just right (including some internal detail in the heatbreak you can’t easily see) or it won’t work well for PLA. That’s where PTFE liners help – they make the hot end much less sensitive to bad thermal management.
@Nathan_Walkner where do you get these barrels?
Is the cooling bar hole for the heatbreak smooth or threaded? You need to buy the right type for your setup.
TBH, it probably already has a PTFE liner in it, but it might be damaged or cut too short or too long. Open it up and see. (Loosen the nozzle while it’s preheated, let it cool, and disassemble.)
@Nathan_Walkner rep2x was a different heatbreak design from the 1/2, they buggered it up with a smooth heatbreak to make nozzle leveling easier. Smooth heatbreaks can’t shed heat fast enough to avoid heat creep so you need the Teflon liner.
@Nathan_Walkner it already has a white plastic type tube inside of it. Is there a way to tell if it’s PTFE lined?