On the flat it runs at 102 inches per minute. It stalls out at 108 IPM. I will cap it at 90 IPM. Good enough.
But l feel littel push on my finger tip from edge bearing,when lm rotation my screw how about yours ?
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@sandi_waktu
I am not sure I know what you mean. I did not use the same size spacer nut as fits on the rod either. There’s always more than meets the eye.
Oh my screw not realy fit on bearing and have space just a hair
@Krzysztof_Foltman
How do you figure? The machine does not stall at all at 102 IPM. It only begins to stall at 108. It still will run at 108. But it will stall out eventually. So 90 is well below the threshold of failure. Even at 102 I can’t stop the stage from running by grabbing it, and trying to hold it. It has power like a car jack. Actually I am running low current on the drive motor. It is a 3 amp motor, and I am only running it at 1.91 amps. So I probably could get a bit more out of it by adjusting the current up somewhat. That’s why it is stalling. It is getting current starved at the higher step rate.
@Krzysztof_Foltman
I hope so. I ran it back and forth a while at speed. It seems fine to me.
You’re probably hitting mid-band resonance. If you add stepper dampers then you should be able to go faster.
@dhylands
900 RPM is about the top of my torque curve at 32V. The only way I can go faster is to use drives that can handle higher input voltage.
I’m completely amazed that you managed to drill all the holes so exactly in the right position that it stays tight without adjustment. That is really, really amazing… I would have to do some tricks with the bearings to make them adjustable.
@James_Newton
Well, I do have a milling machine. So that helps. Sometimes holes just have to be close to where you need them to be. There is some adjustment with this mechanism too. I can move the tubes around a little when the nuts that hold them are loose. Enough that I can get the slide I want.
I probably should have taken pictures of the setups I did for drilling everything. I thought about it. Everything was stopped, and fixtured.
I measured one hole, and punched its location, then I set the fixture by it, and just used a center drill on all the other pieces, when they were loaded into the fixture.
That’s the secret. Get one right, then just keep repeating it. Measuring, punching, then trying to hit it all, there’s just too many opportunities to screw up going that route. Measure once, set a stop on that measurement, then drill, drill, drill. That stands a chance.
Ah… I see the very very slight adjustment by loosening the tubes… Maybe move them in too tight, snug the nuts, then run the thing up and down to move the tube into the perfect position and finish by tightening the nut the rest of the way? But still, you gots to be very very close to perfect with the drilling.
Could you share the type of corner stop you got? I gotta get me one of those, I guess.
Thanks!
@James_Newton
I can mock it up and take a picture of it. I have to warn you though, it is an extremely basic setup. http://i.imgur.com/2SD7t9C.jpg The trick is in the order that you drill the holes. You do the two diagonal holes, then flip the piece, and drill the other two holes. That way dimensions stay the same between parallel sides. Because those parallel sides are always against the same stops.
