On my bot at least, some times the Y limit switch doesn’t make contact before it hits the end of the rails, i am not sure why it is intermittent, but it is quite rare. adding a bit of adjustment (realizing that it may cause intermittent issues for others) on the switch would be nice.
It would be nice to make one of the G2 belt mods slightly easier to do (my thoughts are to put nut catches on the x/y axis for a stack of washers and 2 roller-skate bearings) The Y axis mod is so easy at this point, but the X axis mod requires you to completely disassemble to make the install.
The mods i have done to make my extruder work slightly better are taken care of the with the aluminum extruder kit. (bigger washer on the spring)
If you could make the filament guide tube a bit longer and cut it at a 45 it would allow for ninjaflex to be used without modification, also it may reduce buckling (may be fixed with the aluminum extruder)
None of those are huge changes, they may have been made since i purchased my kit.
on a more selfish note. you have the upgrade to 2014 kit, but you don’t have an upgrade to 2014 XL kit, Is there anyway you could make that happen (the loose parts are mostly in the store)
I second what @Jonathan said. Belts instead of the string and an integrated sensor holder would be awesome. Longer Y axis wire would give a little more and prevent spring back when the motors are no engaged.
Would it be possible to integrate the flip up print bed that was on the JR?
more spacing between the Y axis linear bearing to eliminate sag.
I would also change the printrboard and place it on the other side of the wood piece that’s holding it. My first problem when I build my Simple was the Z axis tie-wrap grabbing the Y axis motor and breaking the wires (had to bought a replacement motor).
Maybe an extruder motor fan or at lease sufficient heatsink.
On a more eye catching maybe offer pre-stain/varnished wood pieces.
Having just finished step 20 and realizing I miss ran the x stop wiring harness, a simple no cost enhancement would be to laser etch wire paths/directions
@Brook_Drumm 2 more build comments. An observation that the laser cut pieces have very tight tolerances - I had to sand / trim some pegs/holes to get one of the sides onto the base. Also, I didn’t realize this (but it makes sense now), laser cutting creates a ‘V’ in the wood which created 3 problems for me:
I believe it contributed to the alignment problems stated above.
It (initially) created some non-square connections where 2 pieces were attached. (Bracing / additional pieces later on in assembly straightened this out).
Inserting nuts into the slots is clearly easier from the ‘top’ than ‘bottom’.
@Alex_Wiebe The load currents are substantially higher in CNC applications. In 3d printing the loads are around 40 Ncm on the extruder and maybe 5-20 Ncm on the rest of the steppers. This means the currents are quite low and the self induced noise is quite low. In CNC applications your torque is quite a bit higher, your currents are higher, your noise generated is higher. It probably wont hurt to put common mode chokes on your steppers, but first i would simply twist the wires (well twisted wires get more then 40 dB of magnetic field rejection. If you are worried about noise, twist your wires, if you still have noise then start adding components.
Twisting the wires prevents the noise from getting on the lines, common mode chokes prevent the noise from traveling on the line.
