Originally shared by BD BadDevices
http://baddevices.wordpress.com/2013/08/01/new-hot-ends/
Good choice!
Concur - you won’t go back.
An excellent choice! Agreed!
If you want to go fast, you can just keep cranking up the heat. I was printing PLA yesterday through a 0.6mm nozzle, and cranked the temperature up to 280C to increase the melt-rate. A 0.6mm nozzle can really crank out some serious volume/second.
That’s why I’m so excited about the kraken, .6 infill, .2/.1 perimeter + different support-material… When o Sanjay, when will you release the kraken?
Thank you! 
This week end we will assembly and try the hot ends.
@Sanjay_Mortimer I use Marlin firmware, which thermistor table I have to select? or you have a specific table for your thermistor?
Hey Stefano,
It’s a pretty standard EPCOS 100kOhm - we use option 1 in marlin, some other report good things about option 6.
Thank you very much, so I start setting the 1. It’s interesting your suggestion to crank up the temperature, but, for curiosity, at that temperature the PLA does not “boil” or “burn”?
Nope it doesn’t boil or burn. (If you do it right)
The plastic we process in our nozzles never really gets to the temp of the nozzle itself, this holds true for all but the slowest of printing.
When we go faster the plastic doesn’t have enough time to heat up/conduct to melt all the flow, so you get that choking/non-extrusion happening.
By increasing the temp, and therefore the temperature difference between the nozzle and the plastic we increase the power transferred to the plastic, increasing melt rates.
As long as you keep a reasonably constant fast feedrate you won’t burn or boil. But if you stop or go much slower for a period of time you will start to see those effects.
Thank you again for the very clear explanation!
@Sanjay_Mortimer another information about configure as best your hotend; again, in marlin can I leave the default PID settings or you suggest me better settings for Kp, Ki, Kd?
I would suggest you use
M303 S200 C10
And marlin will spit you back out automatically tuned correct PID values.
PID values are often particular to your situation, fans, drafts, ambient temp etc so using M303 is your best bet.
Perfect, I will surely try this. thanks
A little update: yesterday we build the hotends and mount on the BadPrinter2 and they are awesome! we made some videos and foto and as soon as possible we update the blog with this material. We concentrate in testing and printing things to tweak everything. We install the two hotends in a common carriage with an aluminium “clamp” that maintain 28 mm from each other, so we need to print a common fan diffuser with two fans for cool the heads, so at the moment we run with just one, but it is very easy to built and fantastic at print 
Awesome! I’d be interested to see a picture of your two-extruder mounting. As far as I know you would be the first with two E3D hotends on a carriage. Beaten @Tim_Rastall to the punch!
Ahahah, sorry @Tim_Rastall anyway I think that you are doing a great job with the Big Tantillus. I’m happy to hear that. As soon as we update the blog I can link also a video of the carriage with two heads. At the moment we have a problem in our prototype PCB and we cant’t use both the head, but probably tomorrow or on tuesday I will make a new PCB and try to extrude double color
@Stefano_Pavanello That’s ok mate, I’m aiming for 3 nozzles now anyway :P. Great to see you’re making good progress, I’ll look forward to the next blog entry.