A month ago I started to rebuild the DIY printer Hypercube. It was a lot of fun and with the few information and photos under the URL
you could screw the printer together from scratch.
Of course I have also made a video about it, it will be edited later and put online in the next week. I will inform you then.
The printer has a silicone heating bed which is operated by an SSD and 220V. Therefore I only need a 12V/60W power supply. I’m busy with autleveling right now and think I can present the first 3D printed parts on the weekend.
Nice! I see you figured out a way to get the cooling fan BEHIND the hot end. That way you can still see! I’ve considered designing my own carriage to do something similar because I hate having to look around the fan. But this project looks great! I hope it works well. Maybe some day I’ll build my own. It’s just a lot of work and I don’t have much time anymore.
I’m curious how you’re going about grounding. I’m using an SSR in my current work in progress and I was told the safest thing to do is to connect ground to all metal parts that aren’t welded together. Since I’m using a frame made of aluminum extrusions like you that becomes somewhat of a pain. I don’t know if yours are anodized but I’m using black anodized which shouldn’t conduct so I think it might be fine to just ground the build plate and maybe the metal SSR base but I’m not sure.
That’s not what I’m asking. You’re using AC to heat the bed via the SSR so you’re running live and neutral from mains. But for safety, you should also run ground to at least the build plate in case a wire comes loose so you don’t end up electrocuting yourself when you touch the build plate.
solid state relay