Originally shared by Michel Pollet
Made some sawdust! (Warning: LOUD audio on the videos)
Here’s an oak box, made out of a reclaimed bit of oak flooring. Used a 6mm endmill to pocket it, and a 3mm one to cut it out.
The 3mm one was a bit of an adventure, as I started the path WAY too fast and crashed into (lucky me!) a piece that was discarded anyway.
The box is pictured here after perhaps 15 minutes of chiseling to remove the holding tabs and the fur. Still need finishing of course…
good job!
Schweeeeet!
Nice box, BS word… “Reclaimed”… lol
Here we call it old/used, or my favorite, dumpster diving…
Great job.
very nice. when i pocket out, i get these ridges on one side… perhaps my bit is not perpendicular to the stock? anyhow, great stuff.
@Frank_Graffagnino , your “Ridges” or “Water level marks” as some call it are caused for many different reasons. Always best to do your wall passes (rough) with some stock left on the geometry (3/16th and up tooling leave: wood .030, alu .020, steel .015-.010.) Then with a tool that has enough LOC take one “finish” full depth pass to nominal/stock. This last finish pass will remove all your marks and with the amount of stock left shouldn’t introduce any tool deflection provided ur F&Speeds ain’t crazy.
Eric
thanks @Eric_Mosley . My marks weren’t on the walls though… it was on the floor of the pocket and was only occuring on one side of the rectangle… meaning it would cut out a rectangle and everything is smooth on one side (where it is cutting on the right side of the bit) and on the other side of the rectangle, i get ridges as if the cuts themselves are not parallel or flat. I’m thinking my spindle isn’t square with the wasteboard.
@Frank_Graffagnino . Agreed. Spindle doesn’t sound Trammed to the table.
Sorry for all the rederick before. 
no way… that’s useful info. thanks!
To proof out the spindle for sure needs tramming. You could run a simple pocketing or raster facing with 85% step over, one with a small sq endmill and one with a large Sq endmill. The issue should get worse as the tool diameter increases.
To simplify things… just run a raster surface program with 85% step over at .125 depth at a safe spindle speed for your tool. (Half inch is ok 3/4 dia would be better.)
After you run it. If your spindle isn’t trammed when the surfacing is done it should leave little steps.
The height of those steps divided by 2 is how much out of tram your spindle is from the table. This can help get you close if you don’t have the proper tools to tram your spindle. Though calipers wouldn’t hurt to measure the scallop (aka step) height.
Run the surface program long ways in X. Then make one to run long ways in Y
Eric
Mine is not /perfectly/ square BTW, I see a slight trace on the wood on the X axis, it’s not really a ‘step’ per se, it’s really a trace that goes away with a pass of sanding…
