Originally shared by Patrick Charlton-O'Shea Since my filament would much rather adhere to the

3D Printing
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Originally shared by Patrick Charlton-O’Shea

Since my filament would much rather adhere to the nozzle than to the bed, would it be better to have a brass plate and a glass nozzle?

Stupid piece of crap. Never ever buy a Vellerman K8200.

Starting to doubt the E3D V6 too.

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been using E3D for a few years now, never had Any Issues with their equipment, I print mostly ABS on glass.

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Does the K8200 now include the E3D? The promo photos show something that’s clearly not E3D.

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I’ve added the E3D as an aftermarket upgrade, with mixed success. It may be that I’m using a Bowden instead of a direct drive.

I buy my filament from Auarum, here in Australia they’re one of the best.

I’m trying to print PLA on painter’s tape at 60°C (bed), first layer 200°C, all other layers at 180°C.

To be fair, it might just be me getting it wrong. Thanks for the suggestions, I do appreciate the help.

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If you haven’t already, try cleaning the tape w alcohol or acetone. I’ve seen blue tape that just doesn’t work out of of the gate. And a 50% slower first layer helps. Make sure you have plenty of adhesion on the first layer. And if the model doesn’t have a lot of surface area on the bottom, maybe try a healthy brim.

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Have you tried UHU glue on the tape?

What speed is your first layer being printed at? I print PLA at 14mm/s for the first layer only, then 80mm/s for layers above that.

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You may also have the wrong blue painters tape. There is tape that is slightly furry ( what you want) and tape that is slightly shiny.

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@Patrick_Charlton-O_S official E3D or clone? You have to debur the clones or life will suck till you do. Mention the place you bought it from if unsure.

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@NathanielStenzel I got the official E3D, but I’d like to hear about deburring if you have time.

@Camerin_hahn ​ it’s possible. The tape I had been using was blue 3M, but I picked up some green for cheap to try out. That may be part of the problem.

@Paul_Gross ​ I’ve tried UHU on the glass, but not on the tape. Something to try, thanks. Also, I’m not certain of my print speed, but I set the overall print speed to 50% (I’m using Repetier)

@Brook_Drumm I always clean my tape with acetone before printing. I’m using three perimeters before printing too. A brim might help though.

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I use BuildTak. Best thing I’ve ever used and I’ve tried blue tape, UHU glue stick, elmers glue stick, and PEI.

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The other thing that is very important to check is the flatness of the bed, not just the level.

If you’re bed is warped or twisted in some way then you can get areas where the first layer just won’t stick no matter what, because the tip is too far away.

This happened to me, then I realised that anything near one corner would never stick, so I twisted the bed slightly to flatten it and the problem went away.

It didn’t help that the first time I tried to print something I used 0.1mm for my first layer. 0.3mm is far more forgiving of slight variations in the bed surface.

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One of the known issues with the K8200 is that the heated bed is… domed, for want of a better word. I’ve clipped a glass plate to it to smooth it out and leveled it as best I can.

It might be the layer height too. I’ll give that a tweak tonight.

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I just remembered that someone was making glass hotends about a year ago. LOL