PLA does stick pretty well to blue tape. Shattered my 2mm glass bed while removing the part.
Ouch.
happened with me also. i have a white tape which sticks to pla then surface. so prints stick well but i have to change tape.
Glad I haven’t experienced that yet, just had my head crack my glass is all.
Wow that is some strong tape!
I’ve had the same thing happen with Kapton and an ABS print - 2mm really isn’t up to the job. 3mm is more than twice as strong and I’ve never had one of those break.
Best to remove the print by peeling the tape off the glass from the side of the object, and then removing the tape from the part once its off. Blue tape is so cheap that there’s no point in trying to leave it on the bed to reuse.
When it’s that well stuck, I take the glass off and hit the back side with a heat gun or blow torch. It’ll come unstuck without warping or damaging the glass is you’re careful.
@Miles_Wilford Good idea, I’ll try that
You can also try to use pva/wood glue dissolved in water. Put on your glass and let dry on hot surface. Once dry start printing inmediatly.
I use it on 2mm glass and have no problems getting it off.
Also when directly printing to glass without tape gives you the ability to hit the part’s side with a screwdriver or shissle. It’ll pop right of.
Yes, printing directly on glass is great for removal, the piece pops right off when the glass cools. But I find it can be hard to get good adhesion on glass; I need to squash the first layer more and some small part sometimes pop in the middle of the print and get dragged by the nozzle.
I find it’s a very fine line between making the bed hot enough to keep PLA stuck to the glass, and making it hot enough to partially melt the bottom of the part. Especially with a small diameter nozzle. Then the stupid corners curl up regardless. I like tape. 
I also like printing on pyroceram instead of boro.
What does everyone have against PLA on hot glass?
@Chris_Thompson1 For me, it’s annoying when corner-curling causes a half-completed print to pop off the bed. I could just use a raft, of course, but then I might as well use blue tape. For small prints, however, I do like the finish of printing on the pyroceram (which may as well be glass --only more uniformly heated and less warp-prone itself)