Printed a nice cup, but is leak again. I made the skip thicker 4 loops. But it did not help. I used PLA and printed on 190 dr. I need some help.
Increase your extrusion multiplier slightly and try again.
It’s very difficult to get true watertightness with FDM printing, I’ve tried and even with what appears to be a smooth solid surface, water just oozes through the thousands of tiny gaps. You might get close by printing 100% infill, but with a narrow perimeter like this model, I doubt it’d help.
The only way to achieve this consistently is to post-process the print using a resin coating of some kind.
Print in abs then acetate bath.
I spray my stuff with a clear coat spray-paint inside and out makes it water tight but not sure if using it for a drinking glass is a good idea!
If you’re planning on using a cup that gets consumption usage at all, you’ll want to coat it with a food safe resin anyways, especially if you’re using a brass nozzle. One, the ridges from print layers are havens for bacterial growth (this is especially the case, since normal PLA won’t survive the dishwasher), and two, if you’re using a brass nozzle, there is likely some level of lead leakage (lead gets added to brass to make it more machinable). If you’re planning to drink out of it at all, you’ll definitely want to avoid printed ABS.
Coat it with a resin, or, best case, use a food safe silicone to create a mold, and cast it out of resin.
@1111158 It is food safe to use ABS and a resin coating?
@Ruald_Andreae I’m inclined to avoid ABS and consumption at all. Unlike PLA, ABS is quite toxic. If you slap a few layers of resin on it, and then make a silicone mold, you may be able to cast something.
Depending on the ABS type, you may be able to safely injection mold it, like Lego.
The troubles you’re running into is the reason why you don’t see much 3D printed dishware. Due to the porous nature of all FDM prints, you’ll most likely have to resort to a post processing method of sealing.
The technique I use most with my ABS prints (similar to PLA) is an acetone vapor bath. Basically evaporating a small amount of acetone in a metal container to create a cloud. I then “dip” the part into the cloud and the vapor evenly coats every surface. This actually melts the plastic and as it dries it’ll fuse back together removing any tiny surface imperfections. You’ll end up with a stronger, smoother, air tight part. It should be noted that working with acetone, especially heating it, is extremely dangerous and proper safety precautions should be taken. I still would be cautions of drinking out of this due to the concerns previously mentioned, lead in the nozzle, unknown chemicals in the plastic, but if you simply want a leak proof cup, this is a good method.
Another alternative if you just want to design your own drinking cup is to upload your model to a 3D printing company such as http://shapeways.com. You have the option to actually get your part made out of porcelain ceramic making it food, dishwasher and oven safe.
http://shapeways.com
PLA is actually quite water soluble. You will not see it survive many rinsings. Try UPET or any PET flavor, you may have to do some post finishing with heat to get a smooth finish though.
PET is probably your best bet for a food safe material anyways.
@Alex_Majeska I made a cover for my doorbell wiring two years ago and it’s still good come rain or shine. That’s made of regular PLA.
There are different mixes of PLA, different outside conditions etc. Your use case is an occasional splashing vs a guaranteed dousing of a cup. The solubility with also change with pH as well. Poly-Lactic Acid will eventually swell to allow water ingress. As a whole it is better to use a more noble material such a PET.
PLA is not soluble like a sugar cube or as much as PVA, but I wouldn’t use it for a hose pipe fitting and especially not for anything with heat or alcohol involved.
Thank you all fore the information, it was very helpful and interesting.
@Alex_Majeska The Wikipedia article doesn’t mention any solubility in water so I ask you to put me (the layperson) better in the know. I love printing PLA and further references would possibly benefit my efforts.
Would you be kind enough to send me a link or two?
have you tried using the “vase” setting in your slicer?
@Daniel_Bisagni yes.