Printed another 14" tall Eiffel tower to test out some new firmware adjustments. ~65 hours of cranking away with no skips or shifts. 0.1mm layers and a 0.4mm nozzle.
That layer cooler works great. Fantastic print.
Wow, what an awesome print! Would you mind sharing the stl, I’d love to have a go at it.
The .stl is available on http://Thingiverse.com as EiffelTower_fixed
Great, thanks!
Amazing looking print! Some Day I wanna print something like this perfectly like yours^^
Thanks @Neil_Darlow . It allows me to do some really nice prints. I have variations of it on all my printers.
@Jean-Marc_Giacalone Thanks! This is the version I used. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24068/#files Used the single piece tall file. Scaled it to fit the max print height of my printer.
Thanks @Jonas_G !
It was a fun one to watch progress.
Awesome!!!
That thing looks fantastic. You definitely have your settings dialed in to perfection.
@Steven_Archibald Not sure where your post went. This was printed on a Rigidbot 2 XL (RB2XL) with ReliaBuild 3D firmware back ported to it.
@Jeff_Parish lol I saw the post with the ultimaker didn’t realise that was for the thingiverse post, so I deleted thinking that was the printer. Thanks for the reply I’ll look at the rigidbot 2 XL. I’ve been looking for printers that have a decent build height.
@Steven_Archibald Ha, yeah, that Thingiverse title is confusing. No way you could print this in one piece at 14" tall on an Ultimaker.
By the way, Rigidbot is out of business but all is not lost…
@Heath_Harper at http://ReliaBuild3D.com still has some RB2XL’s on hand in kit form and provides top notch support for everything Rigidbot. There are some really good instructions available for putting an RB2 together.
#BOSS
@Jeff_Parish , which PLA do you print?
Awesome it’s second Eiffel tower
What im more amazed is the lack of support and the perfect bridge you manage to have, its like a dream, its perfect pal just perfect
@bulldogge41 Not a quick question to answer if I am interpreting the reason for the question correctly as there are a lot of additional inputs besides just the PLA brand. I use a variety of brands. I’ve not found a perfect one yet. They all have had their issues with brittleness and swells or bubbles with a few garbage spools from time to time but I’ve also had very good success with them most of the time. Filament manufacturing still seems to have a little bit of art involved even with all the controls that can be implemented. I do have a very precise method of calibrating each specific spool so I can get really good prints from just about anything that will pass through the printer and flow properly at 245 C or less. More on that later.
I used a locally manufactured PLA for this print. Brand name Vortex 3Dp. Here is a link to a site that has been selling it. http://reliabuild3d.com/product-category/filament/ I think you can also find it on Amazon. Currently they are out (on site) of the Grey I used here but the Gun Metal is a really good one so far and the electric blue also produces some really nice prints. I’ve not tried the black. The manufacturing of it was just purchased by another local company so I’ll need to establish a new working relationship with them.
I also use HatchBox and have a few spools of IAP filament that I think were originally sourced from China. I like ColorFab for some specialty types (BambooFill is a favorite) and have purchased some other good special filaments from Matterhackers.
Regardless of the source I will always calibrate the filament using this technique found on Thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1037301 I get excellent and consistent results this way.
You can see examples of my dual head printing with two different calibrated filaments here, on a 10" x10" printer:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/113930448883604105560/posts/ZYQsiuUfyiy
and fine tuned, on a 12" x 16" here:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/113930448883604105560/posts/TaSt8pHWxuv
Knowing how the filament you are using behaves (physical dimension and thermally) and the mechanical capabilities and limitations of your printer as well as how they interact with each other is just the start. I hope all this information helps you with at least the filament side of the equation. 
@David_Sherwood Thank you! Some images of my basic Cura settings are actually included in the 10" x 10" dual head calibration link above. Here it is again for clarity. https://plus.google.com/u/0/113930448883604105560/posts/ZYQsiuUfyiy
Of course I tweak the settings depending on the print I’m doing and the behavior of the filament.
First layer speed will vary from 25mm/s to 35mm/s.
Most of the time I use 0.2mm first layers but I will use 0.1 or 0.05 thick layers for smaller nozzle sizes or very fine layer prints.
Retraction will range from 1.5 to 2.5 mm and 15 to 30 mm/s depending on the melt properties of the filament.
For this print it was set to 25 and 2.5.
Filament temp and nominal diameter is determined by the calibration clip technique I mentioned above.
The settings I hardly ever change are the bed temp changes to get things to stick to the bed and not break off or warp and the part cooling fan operation.
More than just the settings are the mechanical ability of the printer to take advantage of them. Rapid part cooling is critical to precise prints regardless of the settings. The fan duct I use blows parallel to the top surface of the print right at the nozzle tip. I get very little air stream interference on the far side of the print from the nozzle and the heat is blown away from the print quickly with out causing fluctuations in the temperature stability of the head. It also greatly enhances ooze control.
Hopefully these settings will give you a good start to adjusting them for your printers abilities. 