Printrbot Frankenbot v2. Started working on the bed design and it for sure needs a couple revisions. I just wanted a visual of how it could look!! More to come soon!
Noob question: how does one solder / attach the temperature sensor. I would have thought the logo side was the print side, but it is also the solder mask side. Then there’s the double hole near the middle - does the temp probe thread through that?
@Alex_Wiebe the heated bed actually goes the other way around. I just took the pic like this. Because the pads are on the top, we put them upside down in terms of the logo and the thermistor is taped to the back of the aluminum on top.
So what you’re saying is; the 2 traces heading up the middle to the 2 holes are all just a ruse to confuse people like me. 
@Alex_Wiebe exactly haha. I’m thinking they are for 24v but @Brook_Drumm would know. The back outer two are for power.
Anyway - unless I decide to try ABS printing, it might all be moot. I have discovered acrylic! Readily accessible, cost effective bed material. Lightly sand with 80 grit paper, no heat, just print. Can’t believe how well it works!
@Alex_Wiebe The Replicator 2 stock bed was a sheet of acrylic. It’s a good surface for PLA, but over time, it warps due to repeated stressing from print heat and warping stresses. Which is fine if you don’t mind replacing it periodically.
Lexan/polycarbonate is a pretty similar-performing surface for PLA that won’t warp. You don’t see many people using it anymore though, not sure why. I guess most everyone is switching to PEI for permanent surfaces since it works with more filaments.
@Alex_Wiebe I misread your question… Yes, you can use those as a trace to mount your thermistor if you would like. Sorry. I thought you were talking about using it for the heating element haha. But yes it’s an extension and the slot in front of it is designed to allow the thermistor to lay in there without creating a bulge.
I toyed around with using those traces for the thermistor. It does work. Just labor intensive. It’s a 12v board. 24 v works I guess but we don’t have a 24v hotend for sale if you run the printrboard at 24v…, the psu is VERY expensive too.
The middle screw hole fights warp on the Pcb as one side of the board heats faster than the other… But I may be remembering the larger bed now that I think of it
Brook