Quick question: has anybody here built a Prusa Air 2? If so, how satisfied are you with the overall design? I’ve begun my build after having the rp parts printed by a close friend with a Makerbot 2, and was just curious.
It’s a generation out of date. With the same materials, you could get the same X/Y, and DOUBLE the Z height out of it by building an i3 instead.
I should note I’m building the XL version, so I will have 200mm on the z.
I think that’s actually even worse. 
The Prusa Mendel, which the Air is derived from suffers a well known issue of lack of stiffness in the X axis. Yes, I see that the air has this tiny little flimsy cross brace, but I’m hesitant to say it can overcome the forces needed near the extents of Z. Especially given that it’s not planar to the axis of travel.
It’s possible that it’s fine, this is just evidence-backed opinion.
Einstein variant, rework, or…?
The Graber i3 (minus the X-axis laser cut parts) is what I recommend to people now. If you’ve found the Air 2 XL in some sort of kit form, I’d say for for it anyways. The X wobble should only affect you once you’ve pretty much got everything tuned and are looking to tune further.
The wood-frame i3 is also a good one to build if you don’t have access to a laser cutter.
No kit for the XL, just had the rp parts printed and was given a full sheet of 6mm acrylic. I may look into the graber in the near future though. Thank you so much for the insight
Acrylic is a pain to cut. It also cracks easily and needs to be tempered after cutting to keep it from splintering.
I work with acrylic fairly often, so that isn’t a problem.
It needs to be tempered? Explain, I work with arcylic often and dont have any issues with crazing after cutting as long as my fasteners are correct
@Joe_Spanier I second that.
Sorry for being pedantic, but Vitamins are the non-printed parts (eg steel rods, screws etc), unless the MakerBot 2 has improved a lot…
@Michael_AtOz sorry about that lol. Got my terminology backwards. Correcting now.