Review of the Folger Tech 2020 i3 kit up on my blog!

3D Printing
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Review of the Folger Tech 2020 i3 kit up on my blog!
http://overworlddesigns.blogspot.com/2016/01/review-folger-tech-2020-i3-kit.html

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nice review, did it come with the inductive sensor? I hope FolgerTech sells a cheap printer where the bed only moves in the Z or not at all- those seem better for larger printer designs.

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Thanks for this. I just got done building their Delta and they have a few errors with that too. I followed their YouTube tutorials and ended up making some minor mods. I hope they sort out their Firmware versions. They really should keep that closer up to date. I need to install what they have on the Delta before I fire it up. Like you I installed a lit switch for main power but I also printed some cable chain. I tucked a lot of wiring into the slots and covered that up with slot covers.

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@Samer_Najia I just built their delta too. Their instructions to get the bed level never worked for me. How about you?

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@Keith_Applegarth
You might want to reprint the bearing holders. Mine seemed less than great and I think they put the bed worse off level. That said, leveling the bed on this one is no different than most other printers. Plus I installed an inductive sensor for auto bed tramming, so I don’t bother with my bed any more anyway.

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@Ted_Huntington
No, I bought the inductive sensor on Ebay.

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@Keith_Applegarth still have to load the firmware. A bit dodgy with the servo but if it doesn’t level I might put springs under it and level it that way.

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@Samer_Najia I have the inductive sensor and found a firmware with an autocalibration feature. Take a look here:https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin
It is for the kossel delta and I do have issues with the autocalibration feature. BUT, it does work.

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@Keith_Applegarth ​, I would need to re-do the effector install to put the inductive sensor in would I not?

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@Samer_Najia part of it. You’d need to replace the bottom part of the effector.

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@Keith_Applegarth ​ you mean that part holding the fan and Jhead, right? That’s just 4 screws and i can repurpose the tap switch connection (I would need a diode too right?) and put the 9G servo on one my tanks instead presumably?

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@Keith_Applegarth ​ forgot to ask…what part are you using as a replacement and what issues did you have with autocalibration? In other words, do you have a firmware package you have tuned for me to try?

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The STL files are on the Dropbox for the v2. Each printer will be a but different depending on your build. Follow the instructions on the github I posted before. If you have an issue, then let me know.

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Ok will do. Do you see any benefit with getting it running as is now and converting or just convert immediately?

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Not sure… Now or later… fix it once or twice… If it were me, I would probably just do it. Otherwise, you are setting it up, calibrating, then tearing it apart to calibrate it again…