Short video of the nearly finished Ul-T-Slot
Not that loud with the access panel on but still to loud for my taste. It’s the 60mm fan from a sever power supply but I plan on adding a variable resistor (pot) to compensate
Also planning on using a Ultimaker 1.5.7 which is on the way. I was wondering will the normal g3d lcd plug into those ext1 and ext2 ports and work right of the bat? Or it the pinout different. Limited information on this. Though if I searched a little harder I’m sure I could find out.
Nice work man. I like the cable Z drive especially- keen to see how the print quality works out with that worm drive, I have a design for one sitting ready to be printed but I’ve got too much on ATM anyway. How did you get on balancing the spectra tension while keeping everything aligned with your tuning pegs? The nice thing about the Sublime design is that the XY ends can move up and down the pre-tensioned spectra line to get everything aligned nicely. I assume this is harder if one end of the line is tied to the the tuning peg…
@Tim_Rastall I used the carriage as a spacer. Put it on one side tighten then slide to the other tighten roll back and forth wash rinse and repeat. Then do the other set. So much easier than the sublime method IMHO. But I’m not dissing. Just modifying. The z was maxed at the top then tighten cables. Up and down a few times tighten and so on. Then slide the gear to the worm and lock it in. The worm was hard to turn at first but smoothing and adjusting gear position fixed that. And both ends of the spectra go through the tuning pegs. Tightens both sides at once. Just trim the spectra cleanly wet the end and push it through like threading a needle. Then the other side. There is just enough room to easily push both in from opposite sides
So, you’ve measured your shaft spacing with digital callipers once you’ve moved things back an forth? Mine x/y shafts are aligned to within 0.25mm parallel to the outershafts. Once the spectra is tight, it shouldn’t move on the outer shafts at all so you need to have some room for adjustment at the x/y end as the line will stretch when you break it in. I don’t see how tuning pegs will allow for that as you tension both ends of the spectra at the same time and the x/y end is fixed to the spectra. I like the tuning peg tightening method, I just know from a lot of experience you need to be able to tweak the position of one X/Y end relative to the X/Y end on the other side.
Where did you buy the led stripes?
@Tim_Rastall I’ll make a video later when I’m satisfied with things, but I can losen one side at one end then move it close to the side I need it pulled to and it pulls it that way then back and forth to even out the tension. Ive done this to fine tune the x/y end position.
@George_Salgueiro Got them from china on eBay. 10m and an IR controller unit and controller for less than 20 eBay search 50/50 RGB or else you get alternating single red then blue then green strip
Can’t wait to see it print
So, what parts of the T-slot tantillus did you use? The upper corners it looks like? Anything else? 10mm rods? What about Tims carriage?
@ThantiK I am using a modded version of @Tim_Rastall carriage. its only one piece. 10mm rods though sometimes I wish I had used 8mm (gt2 pulleys are easier to find) I also used 1010 (1inx1in) 8020 so I modified the tslot tantillus. I took the original x/y ends and heavily modified them for guitar tuners. the t slot tantillus bearing holes will fit both 10mm bearings and 8mm. The z drive is all mine. I was planning on using my ultiboard 1.5.7 tonight and finally finishing this thing because I just recieved my chinese ebay special 24v power supply but it is doa and had an already torn warranty void sticker right out of the box. so I guess I’ll order another from elsewhere. Feel free to ask any questions.
Looks mint! I love it!