@Ulrich_Baer I don’t understand your comments about the “holes”. Do you means to make the holes on the bed?
@Alex_Skoruppa I don’t think that @Jonas_G overextrunding, of course could be a bed leveling problem. Or, if his bed isn’t heated, it could be a grip problem. In this last case I suggest to use a glass bed and a good hair lacquer. I every time use this method and my grip is perfect.
@Cosimo_Orlando holes in the 3d model. As long as you don’t need the buttom surface to be complete, you can add holes to the buttom.
@Cosimo_Orlando no in your model (boolean difference with 100 cones) so the side touching your bed looks like a honeycomb / voronoi / mesh … the cone holes will get smaller with every layer till you get the closed surface. - maybe easiest to archive this would be to print infill without bottomlayer (try cubic subdivision in cura or the gradual infill with triangel) but that would generate a very dense object – maybe better to try a concentric infill with Bottom layers=0. The point is to minimaze the contact surface - this is also what the raft is intended for. But the tension of a closed layer that size with PLA is just too big. You also can also try to print onto a fabric that will stay with your print (mold into), it will work as an reinforcement.
It looks much better now. One edge is a bit lose but it should not be a problem
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@Jonas_G Good. What you did?
I suppose a higher first layer might help too. I’ve gotta say, you’re making the absolute most of your print bed area!! Every bump will show itself.
I’ll be amazed if this print doesn’t warp if you don’t have perfect adhesion.
@Matthias_Peschek What if I simply set the bottom layer to zero? Would that be also an solution?
Lower the gap between head and bed more
Use much slower speed at first layer
Use wax paper to press the bumps against the bed when they occur at 80c or 90c temporarily, then back to 70 degree temp, too much bed heat will warp your print and might make it super sticky.
Press them firmly and pause print while you do that if you can or support the bed first if you work out on the go.
My bed isn’t straight because I use pva coating so its better to touch the bed with Nozzle and have zero extrusion on that high areas, they will be covered up on the next layer.
Just saw that @Ulrich_Baer suggested that^^
@Daniel_Bull sadly, It failed again. but now i will set the botom layer to 0. This will hopefully work!
Also, thanks to all of you for those suggestions! Much appreciated!
@Ausama_S how can I set the bed to 80degrees and then set it back to another temperature? Im using Cura
@Jonas_G » extensions»Post Processing»Modify G-Code −> Add Script --TweakAtZ … check Tweak Bed Temp
@Jonas_G I’m assuming that your firmware have that ability, im using Ramps1. 4 and repetier firmware, can change tempreture while printing or maybe from the host software…
You can edit your Gcode using notepad++ and change M190 S80
M190 for bed and S80 or S90 is the tempreture you decide,
Then add that to the next layer to get it back to normal EX: M190 S70
search Gcodes for examples. They are kinda easy to manipulate.
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Its a function of the slicer not the firmware. You would need to look for the option in Cura.
within the actual cura config you could also set a temp value for “Build Plate Temp initial Layer”.
Im Using CraftWare slicer to generate my Gcode
Gcodes like
M300 for tone,
M117 (message on LCD)
M401 is to store xyz position for each successful layer so if it stops for a bad file i can cut the gcode from that position and continue print.
Those are added manually by me in CraftWare slicer on Gcode option.
But each firmware has its capability.
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Status Update:
if it looks stupid but works it ain’t stupid
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@Jonas_G seems you clamped a printsurface onto the bed - Cardboard?