So guys, I've decided to upgrade to a heated bed for my printrbot just because

So guys, I’ve decided to upgrade to a heated bed for my printrbot just because it will open a door of possibility for printing new plastics etc. So I have a Simple metal and apparently the existing laptop power supply is way to small to support the heated bed. They sell the ATX needed to power the printrbot separately but they have absolutely no instructions on how to connect them. I have my own 350W ATX from an old desktop computer and would much rather use that than buy theirs. How do I connect my ATX to the printer? Also I’ve heard of printrbot using a Y Adapter to connect more lines to the board but cant seem to find one. Any help is greatly appreciated.(I’m pretty stupid when it comes to electronics and schematics)

maybe this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53Lfy5oh7ho

@Jeff_Dewe the thing is that, that my particular printer board is the newer and instead of the 4 pin plug it has a 6 pin. I wish it had a 4 pin because my atx has a 4

@Matthew_Del_Rosso I use a molex to 6 pin converter

@Matthew_Del_Rosso http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463782050& This one works decent

@Alexander_Pritchard aaahhh. thanks now I just need one to connect to the ATX 4 pin for extra stability.

The reason why it uses the 6 pin is so it won’t overheat the wires. The 4 pin and 6 pin are not compatible, do not attempt to plug the 4 pin into the 6 pin, as it’s pinned backwards. You can use a 6 pin adapter, they’re called 6 pin PCIe power adapter.

Check out these guys. I have one on my I3 connected to a 400W Desktop power supply and all I had to do was plug in the main harness and wire 4 wires on the terminal end. I highly recommend this product.

Rick that link you posted, Umm the board is like $35 Canadian, I can buy a power supply for that, Also is it only 1.5A?? Quote “5V, 3.3V, -12V regular outputs, protected with a 1.5A resseteable fuse 1.5A” If so it wouldn’t be any good for the hotend or heated bed.

I paid the extra for the board so I did not have to cut any wires. If your building things on the cheap, then yes go with a different solution. The red and black connections on the right hand side of the board are 12V, the ones on the back are 1.5A. The 12V goes directly to the RAMPS 1.4 Board, not directly to the hot end or bed.