So I am looking into making a water cooled heatsink for a dual extruder setup. This is just my first design, more revisions to come. Basically I have a center supply and dual returns. This is made to fit with two mk8 style extruders face to face. It is also made to fit GEEETech style mount for the extruder.
So here are my questions. Has anyone had shapeways make something with the laser fused aluminum powder? Does anyone think that would be a better option over the stainless steel option? The price difference is significant $154 for the aluminum and $67 for the steel.
I am open to thoughts and suggestions.
Here I am printing it for a test fit. Now you can see the inside. Not the best photo.missing/deleted image from Google+
I think you’re over-designing this. (Which is cool if that’s what you want to do.) Aluminum has practically infinite thermal conductivity as far as this application is concerned. So you don’t need to wrap flow channels tightly around the heat breaks. Yeah, you want some surface area to get heat into the water efficiently, but you don’t need to go crazy with it. For example, you could just eliminate the center channel and loop water through the two outer ports and I’m sure it would work really well.
Here it is assembled. Turned out pretty nice. missing/deleted image from Google+
@Ryan_Carlyle Ok I will have to do that then.
Are you going to tap the water ports or what? Those walls look pretty thin
Here it is mounted to the Prusa knock off frame, it clears everything for the end stops to trigger. missing/deleted image from Google+
@Ryan_Carlyle I don’t know what I am going to do yet. Since you suggested only 2 ports, I should be able to add standard water cooling studs.
How are you adjusting the height of each nozzle?
@Jeff_DeMaagd no clue. Any suggestions?
If you get the nozzle heights close by threading the heat breaks to about the same height, you can shim the mount for the entire dual extruder assembly with folded-up aluminum foil. (Assuming your carriage has a good place to put a shim.)
I use the Kraken/Chimera heatbreaks. Their height is locked in with set screws. Tram your bed, loosen the set screws, move the carriage to the center of the bed, gradually drop the carriage and adjust the nozzles until both touch the bed, and tighten the set screws.
@Jeff_DeMaagd so do I ignore the threads then? There are about 5mm of thread just above the heat break.
The threads would go away. There are no threads on the top end of the Kraken/Chimera heat break. The cold block would have a 7mm reamed bore to receive that heat break.
