So I finally replaced my x ends with new and heavily modified beafy x ends. I see no wobble in my z axis now just a small amount of back lash from my x motor.
I’ll throw the files up on thingieverse if anyone is interested.
Now I just have to work out the best z offset for my auto z, seems its only 1mm off on the z axis but still prints funny in certain areas of the bed.
Id like to see the files, if you don’t mind…
Please post files.
Well done. I designed similar x-ends, though they take more screws (and are modular). This method for the x ends is absolutely the way to go. Its the 2nd biggest improvement I made to my prusa i2. First was to replace the triangles with MDF for a much more sturdy frame.
So the idler and motor mounts are modular? 
Thanks @Stephanie_A they are somewhat modular and they are also a remix of someone else’s x ends I just fixed the problems I saw with them. At what point are they no longer a remix and a new design?
@george_harrington @Sonex128 Lol give me a bit and I’ll post the files.
@george_harrington @Sonex128 @Stephanie_A @Francis_Lee @Daniel_Young Link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114393
@Francis_Lee yes you print two sets of top and bottom end and the motor and pulley brackets work on either side.
Argh unfortunately Thingiverse is down right now. About the same time you uploaded this part. Suspicious.
… m that’s weird. I’ll upload them to umagine later as well for a backup.
Unfortunately on mine the motor brackets and idler mount is not modular. The bearing mounts are, so you can switch to different size z rods easily. The rest is parametric, you choose the settings like leadscrew diameter or rod sizes, it does the rest.
@Stephanie_A I don’t think I would want to retry making these In openscad, I tried OP and it was a bit daunting at the time. Although I’m always up for learning.
It was quite difficult. I built a huge library of functions to be able to make it (and its still could be better)
what is the size rods that is for
what size and what kind of lead screw are you using, also if you dont mind sharing where you got it, that would be aswome, im currently building my own printer, but using printbot main board and sticking to their design style, like yours,
i curently own the JRv2 but its just not cutting it
by the way great job, i will be printing these today if your sized match up
@Anatoliy_Pishenin , the lead screw I use is M8 1.25mm pitch. The smooth rod is also M8 as well. The holes are set at 9mm for the smooth rod due to my printer not printing bridges very well (knock off hot end until I get my e3d)
If you wrap the ends of your smooth rod once or twice with blue tape they hold very well I can’t pull them out once clamped.
The bearings are also LM8UU’s.
Many people are moving to m6 leadscrews for higher precision and less impact of bent leadscrews. I would suggest a version for that.
@Stephanie_A Good point ill make a version for that as well.
