so i just got 2 j-head hotends off ebay to be used in my new dual extruder setup (huxley reprap, ramps 1.4, marlin) and everything seems cool except for the lack of any ptfe in the tube leading to the hotend and i was wondering, based on what ive read, if this is going to be a clogging issue-maker or if this is a “feature” of all metal hotends. i plan to design a fan mount to cool both simultaneously but was wondering if i should be wary of the lack of any ptfe in the tube. cheers.
Dude, you’re doing it wrong.
That’s no Jhead.
please elaborate.
‘All Metal’ Hotends do not have PTFE, otherwise they wouldn’t be ‘all metal’ 
I’m trying PLA in my DIY all metal hotend for the first time ATM and it works, but it gave me some real PITA at the beginning. I’ve never thought i would ‘oil’ my filament, but now i have a paper towel dipped in oil knotted around the filament and it works…
hahaha, thats clever. thats also good to hear. thats what i was thinking but i thought i’d ask, just to be sure. i print at pretty high temps so i am trying to make sure i dont screw everything up, which helps reduce the impact of inevitably screwing everything up…
this video has been very enlightening. it looks to be the exact same one i have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N60tm2eItUw
@Mark_Rehorst you don’t need to use that tubing and its recommended not to if printing material above 260C
good to know. i use 285c for most things although ive been doing so with my huxley for months with no issues
@Mark_Rehorst The other fins don’t feel warm because they’re all there! You can’t dissipate the ~5w of heat with a much smaller heatsink without increasing heatbreak temperatures, which leads to PLA problems.
I have some hot ends which are VERY similar to those, I got from China. Mine did have PTFE linings.
I have not tried mine yet… please keep us informed!
@Derek_Schuetz Can you provide a reference from removing the liner from an e3dv6?
@Derek_Schuetz You absolutely cannot remove the liner from an E3Dv6, and there is absolutely no problem with leaving it in at printing temperatures exceeding 400C since it isn’t exposed to anywhere near that temperature.
Hmm I could have swore the new design for the v6 heat sink allowed you the option to insert the ptfe tubing in through Bowden coupling or not use it at all. My mistake
slightly off topic. I see it has a soft brass nozzle screwed(?) into the heater block. I have a damaged nozzle in my machine that refuses to come out. It seems that it it would just shear off if I put too much torque on it. Help. . Any ideas?
heat it first then twist it out while its still hot. ive had to do that a few times in the past
Will try it. Will ask the people who build it about temperature levels. Thanks, I thought it would be something like that; that the heater block would expand faster then the nozzle, then the block cools and holds the nozle fast like the rims on old train wheels
A real e3d won’t have a ptfe tube inside. It may have a Bowden tube, but that only reaches about halfway into the heatsink and its only for Bowden extruders.
@James_Malenko
May want to take a look at the 1.75mm E3Dv6 - they use a ptfe liner into the middle of the heat break regardless of bowden or not. Take a look at http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#1.75mm_Universal_.28with_Bowden.29
Oh ok. I have that one but I use Bowden. So I always thought that was just for Bowden extruders