So I'm considering printing out a reprap wilson to take the place of my

So I’m considering printing out a reprap wilson to take the place of my smartrap. I feel that it is a much more rigid design and will allow for a heated bed more easily.

What are your opinions on the reprap wilson? Any print quality samples as well as just general opinions are greatly appreciated.

I want to be able to print with a heated bed but I mainly am looking for a very rigid design.

I changed my SmartRap for Reprap Wilson and Im really happy with it :slight_smile:

Griffin. I have shelved my smartrap project in favor of a Prusa I3 for very similar reasons.

@Guy_Bailey Are You printing with ABS? If so, then what are your temp settings? :slight_smile:

I’m printing in PLA at 200C. I haven’t done anything with ABS yet.

I also havent printed with abs. I have tried only once and the print was not sticking to bed. Thanks annyway :slight_smile:

Have you looked into the printable “1405” Simple? I would say it’s the bees knees.

And is easier than Pla
Easy flow and fast printing
I don’t like pla after doing abs.

@Glenn_West ​ I heard that too, but after few attemps od printing on capton with abs juice, still not sticking to the bed :frowning: I see two reasons: the abs is too old, or wrong temp. Also my bed is heating only to 105°C. Anny hint?

Print on bare glass 60-80C 230-250c (E3d metal hotend) and use Elmers Magic Purple Disappering glue on bed before u heat the bed. It will stick everytime. Even in a aircon room. The other choice is to use BondTech.

@Glenn_West Thank you! It worked, now I must just find the best nozzle temp :slight_smile: Oh and I used some hair spray on the glass and it work well.

Its what i did with my one smartrap but i printed my own design that repurposed the smartrap shafts. It uses a rigid aluminum frame. It can be setup as a direct drive or bowden. Has a heated bed and can get printing before fully printed to print its own parts for completion.