So I’ve been reading and reading, and watching video after video on this subject. I never realized how sensitive the height and focal point is, so my next project after I set up my new air assist, set up my new water pump and ventilation system, I’m going to start working on a Z-Axis Bed.
Any of you here make your own yet? Or purchase one pre-fabricated?
http://lightobject.com sells one for the K40 but from some I heard its a finicky install, and the motor cannot run off the standard psu in the unit so you’ll have to add an external 24v one(most of us do anyways). there is also a couple 3d printed projects on thingiverse, worth taking a look.
yea the stock one that is built into the laser psu is only 1 amp, barely enough for the x and y motors. the z table draws nearly 2 amps alone so they even specify that you will need a separate psu. I added a 24v 6a one to mine and use it to run x and y and dont use the 24v from the laser psu, but i plan on expanding also with a z table, rotary(prototype built), etc.
clarification: the laser psu has 24v and 5v out for convenience separate from the laser tube signal. this is referring to motor voltage capability of the laser psu only.
As I was reading your comment I remembered that I have the stock exhaust and water pump plugged into the machine which is horrible for performance then huh? I got my new air assist parts in the mail today and will be plugging them in elsewhere. Haha
those just tap off of the 120v/24v incoming so its not terrible, just double check that there in-line with a fuse of some sort for safety. And yea i use an in-line duct fan at the end of line to create a draw, and a 240l/h 4 dollar ebay pump that works well and is super quiet. my air assist is an aquarium compressor with a homemade baffle on the intake for air assist, currently hooked up to a 433mhz wireless relay(still have to wire to board someday). loudest part i hear is the air flow, which isnt too loud at all. can still hear tv at normal levels.
Just FYI: I have mine digitally controlled from an auxiliary panel which can also be controlled from the smoothie (if I want to).
I currently have it wired to turn on the water when the machine is on. Each AC accessory has its own digitally controlled plug (via a relay) or a switch on the panel.
I used to just put all the AC stuff and the machine on one AC power strip till I got fancy.
Also BTW I run everything off of separate DC supplies. I use the LPS 24V for my lift table and 5V accessories. The lift is probably under-powered a bit but I use it intermittently and infrequently so it doesn’t matter.
All the power in my machine have output fuses.