So, I’ve come across the Fusebox CoreXY Printer (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1047193), which can be built for under 300 USD based on Misumi 1515 Extrusion. I’ve spent the last week looking around for parts and have decided to go with the 2020 extrusion version (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1247161), the parts have started to be printed and I’ve ordered the extrusions and nuts from Misumi. I’ve actually brought the parts price down to around £150, roughly 214 USD. I had it even lower, around £120 by grabbing other parts, but I was skimping on the Hot End, so I’ve gone for my known and trusted E3D Lite6, which still keeps the price down without breaking the budget.
This’ll be the first Bowden I’ve dealt with, my preference is for Direct drive, but I’m going to see how it performs then work from there. Initially, it’s going to be RAMPS powered, but I’ll be moving it on to a 32 bit board later on. I’ll probably be redesigning most of the moving parts when I have the time as it’s a cable tie the bearings into place style thing and I really detest the jankyness of it, but for £150 of parts and config time, I’ll have a small volume (200x200x200) CoreXY which personally, I think is a good base to build up from. I may add auto levelling at some point and bolt the build plate to the Z axis depending on how rigid the frame is. Although as the STLs are there, I can probably get the structural parts cut.Or do it myself when I get the CNC project priced up.
Firmware-wise I’ll be sticking with Marlin over the pre-configured Repetier. I know Marlin well enough to kick it into touch, Hopefully I’ll have all the parts in over the next month or so, ordering from China, delivery may take a while, but I’ll be documenting this one as it’s a load of firsts for me, the main one being a total self build.
I did build 3 CoreXY like this and I know for sure, that you CAN NOT build a good one for less than 700$/650€. I can tell from this picture, that you will get trouble with ringing, wobble and maybe more…
@Rene_Jurack - I realise that, and appreciate the cynacism, but it’s a base to build off of. I’m a constant tinkerer, my 3 Migbot Prusa i3’s new are around the $300 dollar mark new, yes they have their quirks, but you can use them as a base to build off of. I’ve upgraded and tweaked a fair whack of things on the Migbots to get good quality prints,and they do produce good quality prints. I’ve probably spent another £150 ($215/€198) on them each, so I’m looking at around $500 printers now. I fully expect to do the same thing with the Fusebox. It won’t be going into full service until I’m happy with it, I have a lot to learn with the CoreXY as I’m used to Prusa i3s. However, I know once I’ve put it together, I won’t be happy until I’ve got it right, but as I’ve said, I’ll have a base to work off of.
@Rene_Jurack are there any other CoreXY designs that overcome the issues you had? Is the issue with the frame itself, the mechanical designs implemented, or CoreXY’s in general?
A much better one than this is the german “sparkcube”, but even this version is only good up to 60mm/s. With this 20x20 coreXY-cubes, it is CRUCIAL to put sheets at each side of the cube. I cant stress that enough. Then, I strongly recommend 30x30 extrusions over 20x20 and if possible to stay away from linear rods and go with linear rails. You can visit my blog, I did build-logs of all my printers and highlighted every aspect of nearly everything…
Currently, I can print on my last printer with 120 up to 160mm/s and acceleration 5000mm/s² (depends on the part) and travel of >= 500mm/s with pretty good results and little to none ghosting/ringing. With this speed the GT2 belt is the weakest part. I will try brandnamed GT3/3mm pitch in the future to get better quality belts…
Hi @Diego_Trapero , mine is FuseOne and it is quite similar, buy I think there is no connection between both of them. Mine is currently being upgraded by an MSc student at Staffordshire University
@Rene_Jurack I’m more about accuracy than speed. If it’ll manage 60mm/s that’s fine by me.I can work with what I have and go from there, strip down, rebuild, rinse-repeat. It’s going to have a E3D Lite6 in, these can do 80-100mm/s at a push, but it’s not recommended, they say up to 50mm/s, but I push them to 60 most of the time without issue. Yes, CoreXY’s are capable of fast printing and I know there may be some instability with plastic parts holding it together, again, it’s a project. Most of the time it’ll be printing battery holders, where speed and ringing isn’t an issue. As for the small build plate, again, it can be upgraded. This whole exercise is, for me, how cheaply I can build a printer which I can then upgrade later. Sure, I could dump £5-600 on parts and have an awesome printer, but I’m an eternal tinkerer, half the fun for me is getting something an making it better. Case in point, my 3 Migbots $300 printers, than can now print at 0.08mm with no problems and are pretty damn accurate, they have their quirks and I’m still ironing out bits but it’s what I enjoy doing.
I respect that. For me it’s similar, I’d rather build a new printer than printing some stuff But I try permanently improve over the several builds. Like mentioned, it took me 4 printer to get to a nearly perfect build
But I try permanently improve over the several builds. Like mentioned, it took me 4 printer to get to a nearly perfect build