So, I’ve updated the #FB2020 to have 3 point bed levelling and ditched the Buildtak and aluminium plate. Results are that I have adhesion back and a bed that’s stiff and easy to level. I’ve also added more LED lighting, (I have a 5 meter roll, what else am I going to do?) but have moved the cross brace ones so they don’t glare, I’ve shifted the E3D v6 from my home Migbot Prusa i3 to this printer as the Migbot isn’t going to hit speeds much above 60mm/s and a Lite6’ll do fine on it. I’ve already seen a marked improvement on the FB2020 due to the v6 over the Lite6. I’ve finally got the Display mounted, bit of a botch job, but it works
I’m thinking it’s getting to the point It’s almost done. I’m going to convert the Z axis to use 10 or 12mm smooth rods, most likely 12, for less z wobble and add an E3D Titan and that’s about it.
Finally if you want to watch it print another Gayer-Anderson Cat Live, you can watch it at http://home.axmod.co.uk/?action=stream
Hmm. 3d printed plastic to support heatbed? I would put a piece of thick paper in between as insulation. If you cover the bottom of the heatbed, you will get faster heating times 
@Anton_Fosselius - I’ve had no issues with the printed bed supports. Also, going straight into glass, heating to 80c takes about 10mins or less which is fine. I do have plans to stick an insulator in there at some point but it’s one for later down the line.
@Ax_Smith-Laffin i highly recomend it. My bed had problems holding the correct temp before. Now it is faster to heat up and more stable. I have also had no warping at all since I isolated my heatbed. But it can just be a coincidence as well. Switched thermistor in the hotend at the same time, so it can be that. It was a cheap solution as well, just cut a piece out of an old moving box. Have read some reviews of aerogel and other fancy isolators but often a piece of thick paper is good enugh and best value for the time/cost.
