So…There’s gotta be a better, safer, way to get the ABS off my PEI sheet. I’ve tried alcohol, and a little bit of acetone…I’m I going to need to pull the printbed and do something drastic?
I’ve never had ABS adhere quite so well to anything, and I really don’t want to destroy the PEI sheet in getting it off.
Acetone will dissolve the abs. I use a metal flat razor blade holder to get under edges then work a long thin dull “print knife” under the part. Sometimes, I do scrape some of the pei off, damaging the bed.
Yeah, I’m thinking an order of Limonene and a replacement PEI sheet are in my future. I’ll mess with Acetone, but the reality is: You can’t really soak in it, evaporates too fast.
My 2nd tip: Use thin glue layer as on the glass for some materials too adhesive on PEI. It a savior for Flexfill and other flexible materials which stick to PEI too much. (And should help for ASA, so maybe also for ABS.)
I had this yesterday. Used repeated & liberal amounts of acetone after it’d cooled down and was able to get it all off. I had to use a paint scraper and a hammer (like a chisel) to get the print off the bed. Mine stuck like that because I used too much ABS juice to adhere the print. Too much warping and lifting if I don’t use it though… PEI & ABS is a fickle combo
@lightshadown But then ASA (and similair ABS) or flex materials curl up. They behave quite digitally on PEI with that precise autolevelling: stick heavily OR not at all. (Tested with dozens parts from ASA.)
@jerryflyguy ABS juice for ABS printing on PEI sheet on MK2? Isn’t ABS too adhesive itself on PEI? Tip #3: Recommended set up for different materials according Josef Prusa’s team: http://www.prusa3d.com/material-guides/
I print ABS on clean PEI and rarely have removal issues. If little bits are left behind, you can print over them with another print (like a big flat box with lots of floors) and the debris will come up with the next print.
@Ryan_Carlyle ever have trouble with 150mm(+) size prints not sticking down? I’d had a dickens stopping corners from lifting off the PEI on larger(ish) prints
@jerryflyguy I’m not crazy enough to print ABS without a warm enclosure A heatbed alone isn’t really sufficient.
My recommendation is to not even bother with ABS prints taller than 1cm if the ambient temp around the print is lower than 35C, and 45C+ is preferred. (The ideal ABS chamber temp is 75C but most printers can’t do that without damage.)
@Ryan_Carlyle I put little disks at the corners to help out on large ABS printts at the sharp corners. Works way better than a brim because it only puts material where it is needed (areas with a different surface area to mass ratio which tend to cool faster hence get lift due to the differential contraction).
@Eclsnowman Issue #1 is bed adhesion – that’s a solvable problem with stuff like helper disks and ABS slurry.
Issue #2 is residual warping stress in the print regions too high up to be warmed by the heatbed. If the residual warping stress is greater than your interlayer adhesion, the print cracks. That’s also fixable by printing hotter. But even if you don’t get cracks, the residual stress still greatly weakens the print. ABS printed in a cold room is weak and brittle! Which kind of defeats the point of using ABS in the first place.
Even if you can prevent corner curling, I don’t think you should bother with ABS in an unenclosed printer. Just do PETG.