So, when retraction settings and travel speed adjustments only go so far, going down as much as 3-4C causes delamination, the extruder temperature tends to bounce between -2C and +1C compared to my set temperature and I still get ultra fine hairs, I think I have my quality sadly set as well as I can. I could try 1 degree lower, but that is a delamination risk. I tried setting ‘retraction_combing = No Skin’ but I am not sure if it is valid on this old Cura that is in OctoPrint or not. The detail is improved, but the ultra fine hairs are rather hard to remove. I am thinking maybe an acetone vapor bath will fix the hairs…sorta.
For those of you that want more details, it is a non-geared (I refuse to say direct drive because of clarity reasons) cold end with bowden tube (without bowden tube has sometimes been called direct drive) with a cheap E3D knockoff hotend. I have tried 3mm,6mm,12mm retract distances at 20mm/s (once), 50mm/s (once), 100mm/s and 200mm/s and I have tried 250mm/s and 350mm/s travel speeds. I have a 1.5mm Z hop. I print at 80mm/s. I print with 225C hotend and 95C heated bed. I believe my nozzle is 0.5mm. This picture has 3mm retract on the left, 6mm in the middle and 12 on the right. Within the sets, I tried to have slower retraction to the left and faster retraction on the right.
Regardless of if this thread helps me or not, I hope any suggestions may help others with similar problems.
Combing does nothing in this example. In another test piece that I did, the combing left a scar on the side of a print where it sucked the filament in towards the center of the object.
solidarea_speed seems to be top speed in the Cura profile.
if ABS the print temp seems a bit low, i usually run around 240-245°C with a 90°C bed. maybe a bit higher?
I do not run my hotend that hot and never have when my hotend was working right. That said, I guess I could try 230C for the hotend and 90C for the bed on a few calibration prints. I have little to lose that way. I imagine the strings will be worse, of course. I wonder if the higher print temperature will help it stick well enough to the bed which I have kept at 95C lately to make sure it sticks. hmmm…
definitely worth a shot. enclosed printer? i couldn’t print abs for the life of me until i built the box around it. kept having delamination issues.
@Domm434 I wish. The Rostock Max v1 is a difficult printer to enclose. I have spotted some designs for some printed parts, but I never got around to printing them. It would take ages. I will also have to use thinner plastic because I am too cheap to spend all that money on Plexiglas or acrylic.
That seems like it may be an improvement. The donut shape is slightly distorted, but less than the previous attempt. I think the bed temperature was too high. I am unsure of putting the hot end above 230C with a PTFE liner in it, but I think I will try 85C for the bed.
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85C also stuck well enough.
nice, and looks better. I also use PTFE-lined throats and haven’t had them burn out yet from overheating but I also havent exceeded 245.
The strings are still their, but they are reduced.
Try loading up one of the newer Cura versions and dig through the settings to see if anything sounds like it would help. I think there is something like coasting in there now but honestly can’t remember since it is so different from the old Cura. I haven’t used ABS in ages so not much help.
@David_Sherwood well, it seems that I had the accelleration set to 2000mm/s. I put it at 8000mm/s. Thanks for thinking of that.
@David_Sherwood weird. 2 tests so far and at the moment, the results are worse. The string count is about the same but there are more branches. Let’s face it, they do look like branches.
deactivate z-hop first. Then do it all over again. Then, and only if not satisfied, activate z-hop ADDITIONAL to other options. Or, in other words: z-hop is your last option and should be avoided if not needed by all means.
@Rene_Jurack sadly, I have zhop on to help avoid issues with perhaps moving too fast when there is a bit of wiggle in my setup. (face palm) I am not proud of it. I make due sometimes until I get things fixed or replaced.
@David_Sherwood I am using Repetier. I had planned on doing another round of testing. I just need to wait till I have time to do all those tests.
Perhaps your hotend is mis-reporting the temperature. I would try 220-240 and see if something improves. If it gets too melty obviously don’t go higher. The problem may also be related to how long your nozzle is waiting between layers towards the top of the print. There is a minimum layer time setting in simplify3d, and I think slic3r has a similar setting.
That is also in Cura. I am familiar enough with layer minimum time settings.
@M_K11 lol, 240c? I usually print at 260c and 110c for the bed, but i set my speed to 70mm or even 50mm/s using an e3d clone