Spent the better part of the evening diagnosing bits and pieces related to the fried LSM9DS0. Besides the sensor frying, the TXS0104 buffer tied to it also fried, which would make sense. On the low side it can only handle 3.6V, and the faulty regulator responsible for this massacre was putting out over 4V. So, a $30 module (actual part is $12) and a $2 part, dead, thanks to an 88 cent one. But the flip side is, the new sensor module appears to be a lot quieter and stabler than it’s predecessor, which is kinda baffling. But hey, I’m not complaining. I still can’t run the thing in full I2C mode and I’m starting to suspect the way SFE built the module is what’s causing that. No one seems to be able to get a temperature reading either from SFE’s module. So I’m considering getting one from NorDevX and see how well that design works - people have verified the temperature sensor working on that one. So, after getting everything back up and running, I decided to “relax” with some new images …
Very impressive.
Very nice…
Would it work when attached to the wheels of a bike ?
Absolutely. It is after all just a straight strip of LEDs that’s being spun (by hand.) So if you strap it to a spoke and spin the wheel, you get the same effect.
I saw it somewhere (no idea where) that a hall sensor was added to a bike set up to make sure the images are updating and staying consistent when you slow down or speed up.
Yeah, that’s to keep it as more of a “static” image as well. With this, if I speed up, it stretches the image, and if I slow down it gets compressed. Or, I can make it to it appears as if the image is rotating in mid-air as well.
Ultimately, this will have an accelerometer and gyro in it so that I can do stuff like keeping a static image in mid-air regardless of how fast or slow I’m spinning, and also detect the direction of rotation so that things like text would always display the right way to the audience.
That is a great use of an accelerometer.
Sounds very interessting. Do you sell it already?
@Peter_Spriet , a completed unit, no. But if you want just the strips, I can make you a few. @Jon_Burroughs posted some pictures yesterday of what they look like. He bought two of them and soldered them end-to-end to make a long one.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No I’m a newbie in the poi world. What else beside the ledstrip is needed ? I assume a teensy 3.1 can do the job ? (Still hoping the aurbee get funded) other components needed? Will it include the basic script and some patterns ?In a MTB front wheel there is arround 25cm between hub en rim => a ledstrip of max 20cm would be needed leaving some space for controller en batteries.
Costs & shipping to europe (belgium) ?
Well, this is all designed specifically for my POVpoi product. However, you can probably use the same hardware in other things as well, such as a wheel. Besides the strip you’ll also need the controller. You can build your own, or wait till mine is finalized. I run everything off of a 16MHz AVR, (specifically an Arduino Micro clone) so a Teensy will do just fine, although I would stick to the 3.0 as I don’t know whether the library is stable with 3.1 yet. That’s a Daniel question.
If you’re wanting to roll your own controller, you’ll also need an SD card reader for the images. Or you can use the built-in patterns but you’re limited to just a few, whereas the SD card gives you almost an infinite amount of images or patterns. Other than that, nothing else. I can give you all of the code that I wrote, though again, it’s for an AVR. I haven’t tried running it on a Teensy.
Other than that, there are a few other bits and pieces, particularly two tactile buttons, resistors, and loads of wires. I’m going to tag you in the other picture I posted a little bit ago so you can see …
I’m not in a real hurry, need it in september. I will wait a little, maybe your controller is finished by then