Still getting used to PLA. When a single object is printed, these settings are pretty decent aside a few pimples. Yet, printing two island poles is not working out. At the point shown, I had let it run till it became lifted (shown in the video.) I usually don’t freak over hairing but this was too much. The culprit maybe that my retraction isn’t right or that my temps are too high (210°C.) Thoughts?
Edit: Fixed by turning off avoid crossing perimeters. It’s buggy.
I don’t know how your hot end performs, but I print at ~200 and have never had issues.
I was printing at 195, but then I have to print much more slowly.
When it is cold I have printed at 202 or 203. For black I print at ~205.
Yes I’m used to printing fast so I got with a slighter higher temp but this model slows down a lot to accomplish the pillars. Maybe that’s it.
Active cooling really helps with PLA, I’m sure the deezmaker folk check suggest an appropriate duct. Wrt to stringing, it’s a combination of temperature, travel speed, back pressure and retraction. Lowering you temp will reduce ooze but not eliminate it, dialling in your retracts is the best option (imo).
I use this to calibrate retractions: http://www.tantillus.org/FTP/Pyramid.stl
It has a very short base so you don’t have to wait long before you see how the settings effect the stringing. I’d push up you retracts in 0.5mm increments until stringing has been eliminated then reduce in 0.1mm increments until it just starts to show again, then increase by 0.1mm and lock it in.
Cool guys thanks. I didn’t change much to my settings, but printing each tall object individually is a decent temp solution 
https://plus.google.com/111923147077319343048/posts/KAamnE5XYju
few 2mm of retraction may help.
Turns out avoid crossing perimeters is buggy. Was printing fine after turning it off. Yet, I’ll still be adding a fan when I want to accomplish big bridging. Thanks y’all!
Fan is important for PLA I have found. I make sure it is on (but not on for ABS). Temp might be just a shade high as well (darn near every spool I tried has a different sweet spot, 5 degrees or so different is not abnormal). But I do often still see some stringing (although not quite that bad) when I have multiple parts printing.
I still haven’t mastered retraction, but my bowden system is wonky and my hotend has a huge heating area so PLA either drools everywhere, or does not prime enough after retract, causing porous walls. I think I just need a better hotend :o/. I have an E3D on my Christmas list.
I wasn’t using retraction on direct extruder before, but after playing around bowden setup I started to use 8mm retraction on bowden tube and 2mm retraction now on direct extruder.
My high bowden retraction was dictated ptfe tube 3mm for 1.75 filament and a lot of tension inside tube. I’ll fix that in my next bowden try.
