Taulman 910. The best nylon ive ever seen. No moisture when right out of the box yay.
The retract settings taulman suggests is 1mm per 0.1mm nozzle which is 4mm on my printer. That works perfectly. Warping is almost better than ABS!
Print settings:
255deg hotend
55 (50 real) deg bed on pertiprint (http://filafarm.de)
4mm retract@10mm/s
60mm/s printspeed
No fan
What infill? I tried some openrc parts a couple weeks ago. They curled up like a smile.
@Jeremy_Marvin oh sry didnt mention that. Its 25% honeycomb infill @ 0.6mm extrusionwidth with 5perimeters @ 0.5mm extrusionwidth.
On other than pertinax (phenolic paper) and this pertiprint (which is the same lol) it wont stick. I tried everything from kapton, epoxy, gluestick, sugar, woodglue to bare aluminium. This seems the only reliable way as far as i know.
Taulman Bridge is may favourite, lovely stuff and easy to print.
@Daniel_Bull
on the taulman page it says its the easiest to print: http://taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html
Also its the second tensile just behind real PC
very nice!
you might already know this, but if you ever want to get rid of that different texture you have where the holes are (it looks like it’s thinner or extruded differently), then you have to set your infill extrusion width and your perimeter extrusion width to the same value… it took me some time back in the day to figure that out, but maybe that’s just slic3r…
i have never noticed any strength or mechanical issues because of this when compared to same extrusion widths, it seems mostly visual, but i know it bugs some people sometimes…
@Tom_Keidar yeah i know this ^^
It was on purpose. I see blobs when printing perimeters wide (pressure in nozzle). And cause nicer honeycombinfill i do wider infill. Also its stronger. And for top surface i do 0.05<nozzlediameter that gives it a very nice surface.
Put in lots of perimeters because this needs to be very stiff. Look doea not matter here
