The milling on this poor thing is simply horrible, so it will definitely have to be redone IF I decide to continue with this design idea at all. It is even more fiddly in real life than I imagined, with very little possibility for adjusting the thumbnut for the spring tension for example.
The worst part is that I realized that I can’t install it on the bot and test it out until I make all three, because the glass plated and heated PCB that are on the bot currently have been modified (corners scalloped out) to accommodate the conventional mounting posts and won’t even work with this design.
@Simon_Day I still haven’t wired up my Sherline with the TinyG for CNC operation, so no video to share. When I was doing some reading about speeds and feeds in anticipation of the CNC stuff I found out that I’ve been dramatically babying my machine and can mill a lot more aggressively than I previously had been, so roughing this out turned out to be a lot quicker than I had imagined. Didn’t keep me from completely botching it in ways that I will not elaborate on here however.
@Ashley_Webster I do plan to manually tram the bed in that fashion, but these mounts are designed to be wired as end stops (you might be able to see that the clamp on the corner of the glass/PCB is electrically isolated from the rest of the mount except for the top screw) for automatic tram correction by using the nozzle to probe the bed.
@Ashley_Webster I haven’t been able to get good enough prints consistently enough without software tram correction to make the Z error it introduces more than theoretical thus far. I’m hopeful also that the Igus rods and Dry-lin nuts I’m using, combined with the way they’re suspended and driven by Oldham couplers will help to minimize any Z related errors. My bot is largely plywood and folds up into a suitcase, so structural stability is definitely not a strong point.
I use a Sherline lathe/mill at home. I’m a watchmaker by trade, so the work seems incredibly large to me, but it’s all perspective I guess.
