Think the Original Prusa i3 MK2 is too expensive? Well, let’s make one with one goal: To spend as little as possible with as few sacrifices as necessary!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVWLpvekby0
Nice! Seems that I’m building a new printer following this! 
Do you know how much it will cost by know?
This is a great idea. I think I’ll follow along with the plan to use your guide to upgrade my geeeetech into something actually usable
I’ll be doing one as well. Printed bushings though:-) and some other small tweaks. Look forward to the vids Tom!
Great vid! It’s the culmination of the 3D printing movement, I think - or at least just a good putting together of all the various low cost parts by a person with a lot of experience with self-made 3D printers.
But now we will have (again after year) tons of questions here around if the clone will be as reliable and safe as an original #Prusai3MK2. For begginers I have already an answer: Learn from original kit with community in the back and support Josef’s team in Prague, which prepares tons of new things. 
(We will see this year again.)
PS: And yes, for experienced users it is a challenge to build a clone. But they are not the group which will ask if anything breaks down mysteriously and repeatedly. B-)
Will be interesting to see how it performs. I suspect the results will be “it can print, but you get what you pay for”.
If so, you could do followup videos to improve upon it while still trying to keep the price down. Could be a series of videos where you replace one part after another with a better quality one and show which improvements it made. For example: Part1, new >-axis threaded rods and nuts. Price: $10. Result: Better bla bla. Part2, Genuine E3D lite, price £43, Result: bla bla bla… and so on.
Would be interesting to see where you can save money and where you shouldn’t if you want decent print quality.
@Rob_Barnard M5 was picked for three reasons:
- It’s cheaper than M8
- 5x5mm flex couplers are more widely available
- I’m hoping that the thinner M5 cross section will flex and make up for wobbly rods instead of transferring its wobble into the X-axis. I’ve had incredibly wobbly M8, too…
TR8 (not M8) leadscrew is definitely the better option, but even 10AUD is five time as expensive as a 1.55€ threaded rod. If we went with all the upgrade options that don’t look that much more expensive on first sight, we’d easily end up with a $400 printer instead of a $150 one.
@Jon_Miles you can buy fram from aliexpress its starting from 30~40 and can be up to 200
See link but its may be faster to use 2020 rods
https://m.aliexpress.com/search.htm?keywords=3d+printer+frame#/
Been anticipating this since you talked about it last year. I’ll be doing one just because I think it will be a fun project. and I think I may actually have just about everything needed to build one already.
So thought I go all the way here. and ordered most just as listed. ( have ramps /psu etc. Now in approximately 60 days I can start building. I ordered 5 hotends because they sell them for about $50 each here and a few of the proximity sensors. Its only just occurred to be my heated beads are all borosilicate glass. Doh
Ich habe erst einmal alles geordert was auf der Liste steht. Kann es kaum abwarten bis es weitergeht. @Thomas_Sanladerer Gibt es da schon einen Termin? Gibt es zum Gehäuse schon Infos? Ich könnte da was CNC-Fräsen aus Holz.
Another important point is that people do not need to look far to find a $200 free DHL shipping Prusa clone on AliExpress like this all metal clone https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Aluminium-Structure-VCTY-3D-Printer-DIY-Prusa-i3-3d-Pritner-Kit-With-Two-Rolls-Filament/32727123708.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Aluminium-Structure-VCTY-3D-Printer-DIY-Prusa-i3-3d-Pritner-Kit-With-Two-Rolls-Filament/32727123708.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.ALF5Yo&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10126_10124_10000187-10050,searchweb201603_3,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_1,single_sort_2_default&btsid=89293dd0-c2a1-4a08-8a4a-b5dd3994c69f&algo_expid=1946ee3f-c005-48bc-941f-661c910b49aa-1&algo_pvid=1946ee3f-c005-48bc-941f-661c910b49aa
@Ted_Huntington Plus hefty import duty&VAT (into EU). (I know, still an unbeatable Asian price.)
I built my own i3 a few months ago, I used these self-centering z-couplers (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:602481) while waiting for some metal ones from China for $0.99 to arrive. They work so well I’ve not got round to replacing them yet
Is there a CAD file of the frame somewhere? I can only find the Pusa STL’s for the printed parts. Thinking of doing this too, but as a mid price, do it for the sake of making your own type thing.
@Chris_Brent the frame hasn’t changed from the MK1 - you can find the .dxf in the older repositories!
@Tomas_Vit Oh I didn’t know that, I live in the USA- in that case maybe buying the individual parts is a lot less to pay for those in the EU.
@Thomas_Sanladerer Thanks, I had a look around after I wrote that and found them. Takes a bit of hunting though The http://reprap.org buyers guide was useful too.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide
@Thomas_Sanladerer have you considered another option instead of metal flexible couplings for threaded rods?. I mean simple rubber tube clamped with tube -clamps. I’ve seen this solution in a maker space. After some time everybody was moving to this solution as performed much better of cheapest metal flexible couplings (they pretended having less vibrations). I am not sure it is the best solution but at least it is as good as flexible couplings and costs even less . For clamps I mean ones as simple ones: https://images.google.it/imgres?imgurl=https://www.officinatonazzo.it/files/bartosnc2009_Files/Foto/71962_1.JPG&imgrefurl=https://www.officinatonazzo.it/parti-serbatoio-molletta-stringitubo-benzina-zincata-12mm-per-tubo-benzina-vespa.1.15.20.gp.5086.uw&docid=wCmCeRh3UpsJvM&tbnid=tc-teAhUqNm5OM:&w=250&h=250&source=sh/x/im
