This is a loop extruder upgraded to clear t-glase. I expect this to outlast my 3d printer.
The excellent ABS wades reloaded that +Tim Rastall sent many moons ago finally delaminated around the tensioning nuts.
This is a loop extruder upgraded to clear t-glase. I expect this to outlast my 3d printer.
The excellent ABS wades reloaded that +Tim Rastall sent many moons ago finally delaminated around the tensioning nuts.
I found PET to become a bit brittle over time, also it is not as stable when it becomes as hot as ABS.
If anything, i would try to print one from Nylon, that should last you a lifetime 
Nylon is the way to go for long lasting parts. It’s the least experimental compared to something like polycarbonate.
Thanks @Bjorn_Marl I’ll keep a lookout.
@Ben_Van_Den_Broeck I haven’t quite figured out how to keep my nylon from delaminating, and since that is the main failure mode I decided to use something that had incredibly strong interlayer bonds.
@Matt_Kraemer I only had delamination with Taulman 618. Taulman bridge on the other hand is simply indistructable.
@Bjorn_Marl Excellent! Would you mind sharing your layer heights, temps and speeds for printing bridge? I haven’t found the right settings yet.
I’ve been printing the rest of this extruder in 645 after hearing your recommendation. I’m printing .1mm layer heights, 1200mm/min perimeters and 2500mm/min for everything else at 245C with a 60C bed and things seem to be going smashingly. .2mm z-lift seems critical to avoid burning stringers.