This is my way off how too calibrate the filament extrusion with Simplify3D.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ls3B97IHyg
This is been my preferred method for a long time. Very good write-up and explanation. Measuring filament diameter is good to know how consistent your filament is across the spool, but I’ve never had very good results on using filament diameter adjustment to get proper extrusion volumes. Using this method my top infill has been glassy smooth for a long time.
Great job. And I loved seeing the Bondtech mini on a cross-rod gantry style printer. @Martin_Bondeus really does exceptional work on his designs.
I haven’t seen someone do 2-3 shells before, that’s a good trick. You can’t just measure 1 shell with S3D because “extrusion width” for S3D is the width of the rectangle that the filament theoretically fills, and thus the strand spacing, not the width of the oval that is actually extruded.
@Eclsnowman So we are both screw ups? 
@Ryan_Carlyle Thx Ryan, i have learned alot from you over the years so we can say some off this is from you too. 
This is very similar to one of my methods. I extrude 0.5mm beads though, it’s easier to design thin features around, but 0.48 is fine. Lately I have just been watching how the extrusion lines pack and adjust, a few layers up so any minor z offset errors don’t throw off the settings.
I stopped using the “measure the perimeter”-method alone. It is not performing well with different filaments. Instead, you should do like you did in the video and after that print several flat pieces with solid toplayers. While doing this, reduce the flow further, that there is no gathering of filament at the nozzle AND the toplayer is still staying closed. You aim at just before the moment the toplayer begins to get holey.
Using the method in the video alone and you are going to overextrude almost always. But you will get pretty good results with a light overextrusion anyways, so you probably don’t notice that you are overextruding.
I have had the best luck with accurate dimensions using the perimeter method. At least with accuracy of hole ID and resulting top infill. Using the solid infill method was too subjective for me to get good results.
But another thing I do is make sure to look up the plastics shrink factor. And test to see how models should be scaled to help offset thermal shrink. For example I have been using 1.008 factor on ABS for a long time now (thanks to @Martin_Bondeus for turning me onto that one). Parts (large parts especially) can come out of tolerance if you don’t properly account for the shrink factor. One issue is linear scaling is imperfect since we have different model geometry, complex wall thickness intersections. But some trial and error on large parts will give you insight with practice. For example I usually scale in X/Y the same, but have to scale in Z less due to the nature of the layer building process retaining height because the nozzle moves up the fixed layer amount each time regardless of the shrink.
Probably need to point out that calibrating for part strength/watertightness/transparency and calibrating for dimension/fit/looks require different processes. For strength, the goal is to mash as much plastic into the gaps between strands as possible (without jamming or bulging), to make the overlapping strands nearly solid. For looks and dimensional accuracy, you need to make sure the strands don’t ever flow outside their theoretical placement, which means keeping them tidy ovals without a lot of overlap. Looks and strength are somewhat contradictory goals here.
@Ryan_Carlyle I completely agree. I feel the same way about printing temps. Printing slow and on the cooler side can yield more esthetic parts. But printing faster and hotter can yield parts with better inter-layer adhesion.
I did new that not everyone can agree with my method. I have used it for almost 2 years now and it works really good for me.
And as Eric says, if i want perfect dimensions i also scale my part. How much depends on part and filament, i did not mention this in the video because i wanted it not to be too long as all my other videos in Swedish always is.
This video is more amied for beginners, look at all those bad prints so many off them get. If they take their time and do this most off them will have much better prints.
@Rene_Jurack I think you post was really intresting so i did scale up the block and printed it out with 100% infill. Simplify3d suggest that weight is 50.03g. After printing it the real weight is 45g and no signs off overextrusion. Part lifted from bed abit tough. But still top layer is nice and flat imo. http://i.imgur.com/rf72Jiq.jpg
looks good. 100% infill isn’t neccessary, actually it is contraproductive. 95% or such should be your max infill. 100% infill causes problems because of the way the filament forms up as it is coming out the nozzle. Slicer can’t handle this, it is very complex math involved. Anyways, your print looks good
@Rene_Jurack Yea, so many things to consider. But thx for giving me some input, it is always good to try out new idea’s and learn from eachother.
@Rene_Jurack S3D does 100% infill just fine if you calibrate it the “normal” way instead of measuring perimeters. http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1161/extrusion-adjustment/1163#1163
@Ryan_Carlyle Thx for that link, very useful.
@Ryan_Carlyle I agree with @Trhuster … great explanation. I was not aware of the differences between Slicer and S3D. I only had my experiences on how to get dimensionally accurate OD and ID dimensions through experimentation.
I also find what plastic you are printing makes a big difference on where I like to run my extrusion multiplier. For example something like PETG which is a mess if you are over extruding (buildup on the nozzle that gets deposited on the print) I tend to run under extruded on purpose. The layer bonding of PETG is so good that strength is rarely an issue running on the under extruded side. Plus PETG die swell, surface tension, and flow characteristics at the temps I use tends to lend it to retaining very smooth top infill surface even if under extruded. Whereas something like ABS with the same calibrated multiplier would show under extrusion between infill lines on top surfaces.
Yep, definitely need to recalibrate any time you change extruder hardware or material.