@Daid_Braam I just did a test, and SLOWLY jogged it up, it can get to 200mm with about 3-4mm to spare. So perhaps the firmware is mis-configured, I’m looking at it now. A few questions came when while looking at it:
@Diego_Porqueras_Deez In the configuration, it has auto bed leveling turned off. Is it possible to get that working with the bukobots? I don’t know what all is involved with firmware based leveling (how it detects the resistance) so no idea if bukobot has whatever it needs to work… The printer has stayed level forever it seems like (unlike a previous printer I had that needed re-leveling after every other print, that got old really fast…), even stayed level after the crash! 
So I don’t really need that feature, just curious about it is all.
OK just got to the limits… it has:
x: 355 ???
y: 205
z: 210
So there’s my problem, it probably let it go all the way up to 210, roughly 6mm above the limits, wow! Surprised it didn’t totally knock the z motors off the printer! Also is there a reason it lets X go all the way up to 355 or is that a typo meant to be 255 maybe to allow for dual extruders?
This is using firmware here:
Before I go monkeying with the firmware, all I would do is set it to use max of 200 on this line right?
Also, it’s awesome to see the discussion of different materials! I can see what Diego is saying, the acrylic is very stiff, and it is used for the corners of the frame, so allows for very accurate squaring of the frame. When I was putting it together, the frame almost made a square “naturally” with very little adjustment needed, I really like how the frame on this machine works.
Also for the record, it moaned and groaned a lot, then stopped (probably at the 210 limit), I pulled the power right as it was already stopping anyways… I know it stopped on it’s own (vs. because pulled power), because when I kill the power it still stays on for another second or 2 as the capacitors in the power supply drain. Then after it stopped, when it had the pressure on it for a second or 2 is when the loud creak happened that I assume is the acrylic giving. I quickly turned it back on and lowered it to take the pressure off.
So it took a lot of force + few seconds time for it to finally crack, and I’m still able to print afterward, so I’d argue in favor of the acrylic parts… like I said if I’m reading it right, it actually pushed 6mm above the physical limit on the frame. Perhaps shortening the z screws would stop damage, but would also make it more difficult for modders to get extra 1-2 inches by leaving off the top bar… The better fix would be to change that z limit to 200 instead of 210, folks that want extra z can customize the firmware. Just my 2 cents as the “user” of the printer 
@Whosa_whatsis is in charge of those details and should post an update for you. We might have put higher limits because some users requested to go beyond 200 and and wanted a few more layers to print. It’s all changeable in firmware of course. The x & y don’t get damaged if they past the limits so its not critical, just would skip motors.
Auto leveling features seem to work but you need the extra probe hardware sensors for it to work in course. @Whosa_whatsis may have some input on that. We do have extra mounting holes on the aluminum x carriage they you may purpose for that.
Those numbers are based on the frame of the V1 Duo, which was much wider (more than double the separation between nozzles that we have now) and a bit taller so that it could safely move past 210mm. I can change the Z value, though that doesn’t help if you try to move up without first homing the Z axis so that your zero point is at the bottom rather than wherever it was when you powered up. I’ve been saying for some time that we should shorten the Z rods as a physical failsafe for this reason.
No software or machine (or person, or anything else for that matter) is ever perfect, but it’s the constant, unending, Zeno-esque endeavor toward perfection that creates everything good in the world.
As for auto-leveling, which has nothing to do with leveling and doesn’t even involve tramming (which is often mistaken for leveling), this type of software-based platform compensation is a really bad idea if you’re trying to print high quality parts, because rounding errors and axis quantization will produce artifacts during the coordinate transformation and the resulting axis movement. Some designs have recently begun being developed for assisting or even automating the physical tramming of the platform, which is a much better idea.
@Whosa_whatsis Ah good information. Are you talking about the solution using a locking mechanism that basically pushes down on the platform at each of the 3 spots, and it locks in at that spot? I was looking at that, someone posted it here on the google+ community, looks like an awesome idea…
@Diego_Porqueras_Deez I got the pieces off to take a closer look, and the cracks only go part way through. Any tips on getting glue in the crack, should I try to break it the rest of the way then glue it?
@Jonathan_Foote No, the solvent glues that will work best are water-thin, and will be drawn into the cracks by capillary action.