This is what the +Printrbot Very Metal Ubis Hotend looks like after the warranty has been voided (and the first jam has been cleared). #IMayNeedaBiggerFan
@John_Davis Is that a grub-screw holding the heatbreak in to the heatsink?
And is the white suff around the heater silicon or fibrous?
@Electra_Flarefire Yes, two set screws in fact (one on each side). The white goo on the heatbreak is not fibrous.
Not a bad design at all. Nice touches like heatsink compound. Plus the red and black look is striking. And it can be pulled apart to be fixed!
I suspect the white stuff is simply silicon ‘calk’, keeps the heat in.
I’m guessing it works well? When it hasn’t been jammed, anyway.
@Electra_Flarefire I’m not qualified to speak intelligently about hotend design frankly, but it does look to be very well thought out and the quality of the machining and finishing of the components is really exceptional.
I had to use a smaller fan than it came with (25 mm vs the original 30 mm) to fit it into my bot so I may have compromised it’s performance. It jammed on a roll of ColorFabb XT that had been giving me nothing but trouble though, so this jam may have as much to do with the filament as anything.
I need to use this new hotend a little more to get a good feel for how it performs, but the very small hot zone and accordingly precise retraction seem impressive.
This new design is thoroughly tested with thousands of hours printing under it. Hundreds… Yes, hundreds of little tweaks over the past year of development.
The regular Ubis ceramic is a work horse, so I finally told Carl- “take whatever time you need… We will release it when it outperforms your other one.” Now it’s ready.
Outperforming is a relative term… There is always a trade off in this type of engineering. Specifically, the requirements were:
All metal (no teflon insert)
Cheaper
High temp capable
More accurate
Faster heat up
More manufacturable
Compatible tips with e3d
All major parts replaceable (you can take it apart-- there is technique involved in assembly so we will publish that soon)
Flexible mounting system (we will release Bowden tube delrin screw on tops… Other designs perhaps)
Extremely efficient (no clunky heater block)
Extremely responsive
The only caveats are:
The stock metal hot end is 30 watts so it works on small laptop power supplies… Ultra high flow rate isn’t really possible
Stock metal hotend will be rated up to around 285 c
The ~40 watt core. Higher temps require upgraded heat core with properly rated thermistor insulation (fiberglass) this complicates assembly so it’s an upgrade. It requires an atx, so this upgrade is better when paired with a printer with a heatbed since you will have an atx psu. This will have slightly higher flow capabilities and reach about 305c. For those breathing rare air with high temp filament.
To blow it out, one final version is planned: the high performance metal Ubis. $$$. This will boast two 40 watt cores, so ~80watts. It has the high temp insulation, and dual power cable (4wires). It will be sold with an optional thermocouple setup that takes the temp control out to a manual off the shelf pid box. The plan is to use the high and low temp alarms to send a constant resistance to the printrboard to take advantage of the cold extrusion settings in marlin. That will toggle the temp reading between room temp and about 210c, even though it won’t actually be at those temperatures. We are working on a more elegant setup so it reports actual temp, but it’s not trivial to create the electronics and software in there to make it all work seamlessly. This is for rocket scientists. The high performance with two cores requires a longer melt zone and will encroach on your z height a few mm. It’s a trade off. Since all these parts are replaceable, and interchangeable, people can configure to their needs. But we recommend you buy an assembled one due to the Technique involved in assembly (torque settings and such).
I know it would be nice to have one ring that rules them all, but adding cost and adding physical length for the high end stuff isn’t really our style. I prefer the right tool for the job… Which means there will be options.
There you have it… Details.
Brook
Forgot to mention- the high performance Ubis will be good to 400c and capable of very high flow rates even with large tips-- up to 1.5mm. Which has me wondering about 3mm filament, but I’m holding the line at 1.75mm for now. The pro needs fast extrusion to get real joy with large tips on huge prints.
Next, I’ll move to pellet extrusion for even larger machines.
A filament jam/ filament run out sensor is in the works for the pro too
Now I’m done
Brook
Thanks @Brook_Drumm . I have mad respect for the efforts of Mr. Ubis et al and I did not take lightly the decision to try a smaller fan with mine. I may try it with some different filament for a bit (to see if the smaller fan is acceptable or not) or I may also just SCAD up a different shroud for the stock fan to get some of that air flow back without disassembling and modifying the X carriage. If that doesn’t work I may have to go “all in” on an Al extruder and who knows what kind of X carriage (waterjetted Al custom job?). If only pesky annoyances like work and domestic duties weren’t always in the way…
Let me know what you want water jetted- just send me the files in dxf and I’ll bring them out 
I’m in NYC june 3-24 for season two. as a thank you for being a long time customer and innovator in the community!
Brook
@Brook_Drumm You’re too kind as always and I would love to take you up on that, but no way can I get my act together that quickly. I hope we can get together while you’re here though. I’ll show you and Brian where I work.
Well, I know some people at my shop- just shoot me what you want and we can ship it out
@Brook_Drumm I wonder what’s the advantage of tip shape like the E3D nozzle. Is a simple shape like this easier to manufacture and also radiate less heat down to the plastic (better for fine detail)?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51LUmmVFr8L.SX522.jpg
Internal threads on a tip mean more thermal mass so this external thread style is smaller, less mass.
Also, really small things are harder to machine so you often need special equipment after you get below a certain size. This tip style isn’t too small, so still relatively easy to make.
There are internal physical dimensions at play with the holes drilled-- as the internal diameter steps down to the final small size of the hole in the end of the tip. Lots of things at play. It’s actually way harder than it looks to make this stuff. If you want reliability, that is.
We
@Brook_Drumm I’m a bit concerned about the white heat-transfer goop you’ve used - I did some investigating and all the types I could find have nasty thermal-degradation byproducts above their rated max temperature of 260 degC or so. What goop are you using that stays good to 400 degC and where can I get some?
I’ll ask Carl about that. It’s more an assembly thing than a necessity in performance if I understand correctly. It will work dry, but he likes the stuff for pla and abs hotends
@John_Davis @Brook_Drumm Have you tried this hotend with the new alu extruder v2. Does it make a difference to use this new hotend with the alu v2. I could never get ninjaflex to work with the original alu extruder.
@Chris_Holland Never tried any other extruders (I use the laser cut pb Wade’s with Drawcut’s spur gears) or Ninjaflex. No help here.
V2 definitely does flexible filament better. Any of our hotends work with it.
@Brook_Drumm I have tried it with the standard ubis hot end. I have never had a completed print with flexible material. What do you suggest I do. I have tried slowing it down to 10 and still I have not had any luck. Any thoughts. Thanks
@Chris_Holland Which extruder are you using?