This week two of my 8 graders started to build up two @Printrbot s (simple metal). After 2.5 hours their time ran out but the printers were not yet finished. So I finished the assembly the day after. It took me 2 hours and then they were done. Another two hours later the first printer was set up and printing.
The print quality is not bad. But I’m sure it can be improoved. Hope @Thomas_Sanladerer will add some post assembly guides and tips. Btw, your guides are great.
Today I introduced the printers in school. I think the students like it.
Looks like it’s still overextruding a bit (so was mine) - decrease the extrusion multiplier or increase the filament diameter in the slicer.
Btw, thanks! Currently working on part 8 of the assembly, and while i don’t really feel like doing any more videos on the Simple Metal, i think i’ll have to do one more on fine-tuning the z-probe, setting the extrusion multiplier and doing a couple other pre-flight adjustments.
@Thomas_Sanladerer I recommend a separate video going step by step on how to calibrate the extruder, the filament diameter, and extrusion rate multiplier. This should be general enough to apply to all machines.
@Stephanie_A i do have https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y on that topic. Do you think simply linking that would be enough?
The other task any user should do is reducing jerk, fine-tuning the z-probe’s settings and reducing the stepper current a bit.That probably warrants another full episode.
Aww but you’re using calipers in that video (i don’t recommend calipers for small measurements), micrometers are much more accurate and repeatable. Also, when switching filament to another type of material (abs to pla, or ninjaflex, etc) the tension of the idler should be readjusted and the steps recalibrated to that material (effective diameter of the hobbed bolt or drive changes based on the hardness of the material and the ability of the teeth to dig into the material). And 10% is a large offset for the extrusion multiplier, i wouldn’t do more than +/- 5%. You also missed on how to verify the calibration from an actual print (using a single walled object first and comparing the extrusion width vs slicer width, then test printing using a solid infill, checking for flatness. You could do a quick tip video on Tuning the stepper current. Z axis and jerk/accel could all be in one video, but don’t attempt tgose without calibrating the current first.
@Thomas_Sanladerer . I’ve only watched one or two of your vids, but I certainly need to see more of them soon. I want to thank you for your thorough coverage of these various subjects. I’m a noob with three different printers and a fourth on its way soon~ish. Since I am getting reasonable prints, I’ve just been winging it, but that won’t last long.
Thanks again.
@enhydra , sure wish you were my kids teacher. Thanks for brining this to the classroom.
