Thoughts on my 3d printer design and things that I could change to make it better. Obviously the top, sides and the front are closed in the final Design and the large flat panels is spray painted wood.
http://a360.co/2gpbcCs ( fusion 360 link for Webbrowser )
A couple suggestions:
–Make sure your frame wood is treated and sealed to reduce chances of warping and expansion due to temperature and humidity changes
–It looks like the build volume of the machine is ~300 x ~300 and your shafts are 8mm diameter; I would highly recommend increasing your linear rail diameter to At Least 10mm, preferably 12mm, though this may minimize the effectiveness of your kinematic system; a thicker rail will significantly reduce deflection of the gantry system
–Make your gantry system adjustable; You will likely have some inaccuracy when you assemble your frame, and if you can’t compensate your gantry for “flex” (i.e. one corner is higher than the other), you will never be able to print with your entire build volume.
–Avoid using a wooden bed brace; this will be exposed to a significant temperature gradient with your heated(?) build platform and will likely warp; change this to polycarbonate, aluminum, or Dibond
–Use a single Z-motor with a belt drive; reduces the chance of the z-leadscrews getting out of sync
–make your Z-axis couplers rigid; also note that since your z-motors (which you may change) support the entire weight of the build platform, the motor bearings may wear more quickly
Better feedback likely needs more details about your build, but hopefully this helps
Thanks, have you just looked at the picture or have you used the link to view to 3d model?
@Franz_Schmidt , I took a peek at the Fusion Model
I would highly suggest 12mm rods for your Z with a bed like that.