TL;DR - is there a way to have G28 home X&Y and then move to the center of the bed in order to home Z (kind of like marlin’s “safe z homing” feature)?
Hi, first time smoothieware user.
I received my Re-ARM board yesterday, and spent most of the day connecting, testing and configuring.
since i’m using EPCOS G550 (4803 100K) thermistors, which are slightly different to the standard ones defined - i had to find the spec sheet again and have smoothie calculate their curves (would you consider adding them to smoothie’s table?). and… i have to hand it to smoothie - it’s extremely easy and friendly to do, and the wiki is a great resource. had some help as well from a more experienced smoothie user (thank you @Ax_Smith-Laffin ).
basically, everything is now configured and ready to print… well, almost…
my printer is a cartesian one (moving bed) of my own design and build, built and re-built over the course of ~2yrs. one of it’s features is an easily swappable hot bed (different sizes, heating capacities, and materials) and hot end (hotend is going through a re-design currently).
the printer’s z endstop is a proximity sensor. for a few reasons…
mainly - setting a physical endstop is not practical for this type of a setup, because if the bed or the xz axes get displaced out of sync (my kids routinely play with the machine when it’s idle - so xz axis is moved out of sync a LOT) it’s easiest to just probe 2 sides of the bed and then re-align the xz axis since the bed is perfectly level and will be very hard to misalign. using a physical endstop would just result in 1 side being too close and the other too far - with a proximity sensor - it’s always triggered at the same distance.
having a swappable bed means that for about 80% of my prints i use the smaller beds (~50% 25x25cm and ~30% 10x10cm) and since it’s too much of a hassle and a potential failure i don’t relocate my endstops each time. instead - in marlin, what i used to do is their “safe-z-homing” where it basically homes x, then y and then homes z at the center of the bed (since those are always the same coordinates regardless of bed size).
i can’t seem to find a comparable option, or way in smoothie to achieve the same effect.
and since the endstops are located where they can work with the 30x30cm bed - if i’m printing with the 25cm bed and i home (G28) it means that 0,0 is ~2.5cm to the left of the bed and the proximity sensor will not work.
bottom line - is there any way to have this setup working as is?
apologies for the long post - i wanted to explain my situation and reasoning, since i read the wiki’s z-probe and endstops articles a few times, and felt the need to explain why my setup has those requirements.