A helical box and lid, #VelocityPainting the lid with a tessellating jigsaw pattern.
I’ll put the STL, pattern and instructions for this and other velocity paintings up on my new site http://velocitypainting.xyz soon.
800mm/min slow, 2400mm/min fast, 0.5mm perimeter in spiral vase mode on a @Think3dPrint3d Kossel Mini, @Fillamentum1 filaments.
The two, umm, pen pots in the foreground of the first image were supposed to slide together like the box in the background, but i didn’t realise that Rhino, by default, twists things to look pretty rather than linearly so they don’t go together
And maybe I am discovering the wheel again, but the exported “painted” gcode can be easily imported back to Simplify3D and visualized with all the beauty of the velocity texture using the setting Show in preview → Coloring → Movement Speed.
In my experience grey scales don’t work very well – you want really punchy black and white. As for inverted or not, that depends on the look you want – try it and see what looks best for your particular image.
Note that this isn’t producing a black-and-white image ultimately, rather it’s a change in the transparency and opacity of the print, so the usual rules as to whether the image looks best inverted or not don’t apply.
FYI, others have posted they can’t get to the hosted download site with the app and my server is refusing also stating the website has been flagged as having malicious content.
@Daniel_Stauffer Just make the pattern wide enough to wrap around nicely. Here’s the pattern I used in this instance: missing/deleted image from Google+
@Mark_Wheadon I have an object I would like to paint with a logo (. And it wraps oddly (it stretches) so I made up a theory:
If one would know how which area the lateral surface of a given object occupies, he/she could make a pattern occupying the area of the lateral surface. lets say you have a cylinder of r=30mm and h=100mm the lateral surface is 18849,56 mm2. So one would have to make a pattern of 100mmx188mm and it should wrap nicely.
@Daniel_Stauffer Agreed. I tend to think in ratios – so make it high enough (in terms of pixels) for a good resolution, then wide enough to match the object’s ratio of girth to height.
@Jeremiah_Coley I was printing an own-design pepper-shaped flower pot wrapper (what a wonderful phrase) for my wife in spiral vase mode, and it came out nice and shiny at the bottom but matte further up (which didn’t look good). I figured the change in texture/opacity was because the print was slower at the bottom (slicer set to slow prints with low layer times to allow the layer to cool) and wondered how well that effect could be controlled – wrote a very crude and short perl script to stripe the speed every 2cm of vertical height.
That result was quite striking, so I took it from there.