What do you do with the ring for the ballscrew end mounts/bearing?
Not enough information to give you an answer.
Which ballscrew end mounts/bearing?
Some ballscrew ends are rebated to allow the fitting of a washer and circlip (It’s not a ring, thats what you put on the finger of your wife or boyfriend).
This is Seger ring mounted on the shaft in order to lock ball screw bearing in place. You need Seger pliers for that. Extend the ring slightly, place it on the notch and release.
Ok, thanks for all the info!
@sszafran Seeger is a brand name - it’s a circlip. You use circlip pliers.
http://www.lori-source.com/upload/201508/31/201508311125098437.jpg
Sorry, gave wrong time in the video… minute 2:01… lol
@Jose_Lobo Thanks for the encouragement Jose. I was able to replace the balls and get the nut back on the ballscrew. I had to do it without the sleeve most people use to transfer it; however, since I paid as much as I did to have it machined and still had reservations, I went ahead and ordered a replacement.
@Mike_Thornbury I’ve heard the term circlip but those are more popularly known as snap rings. Which most accurately describes what the hardware does as it flies off into a parallel dimension when working with them. They just go snap, and they’re gone!
Yes, I’ve just been trying to find out about it. I’ve seen circlip, retaining ring, and snap ring. I just bought a tool for them. Now I’ve gotta research how to use it. I’ll check the link Jose sent. Not sure if this is an “internal” or “external” ring or clip. Fortunately, I measured the holes and the holes should fit the tips. Don’t know if I’ll ever use the tool again, except for the other two ball screws.
@Jose_Lobo Thanks Jose! Just what I was looking for and then some. Great help!
One thing I discovered that will be quite tricky for me is to make certain my ball screws are level and square to eliminate excess torque and binding. I’m attempting to make the necessary measurements and adjustments, but I don’t know if it will be to the degree a pre-built model or a kit would be.
@George_Allen if you want to build a machine capable of a certain amount of accuracy then you do have to assemble it just about that accurately as well. Which can be a bit of a trick. Acknowledgement of the challenge is the first step too. From there it gets easier. Then there’s nothing to it but to do it. But do keep your eye on the ball.
Mine would always pop off on my ball screws. Usually goes on the side opposite of motor end. A simple set of snap ring pliers is all you need. They make reversible ones do you only need to buy one tool for inside or outside rings. Depends on where you are what they are called, I believe circlip id’s the correct term but everyone I know calls them snap rings
@Paul_Frederick Yes, I ordered a pair on Amazon by the company “channel lock.” They have tips for internal & external clips/rings (5 total, which should fit). Thanks for the tip. That is the type of thing that would and likely will happen to me. A couple of years ago I bought a small quad copter and the plastic props would fly off, only to be found after refurnishing the house. I spent almost an hour looking for one because I didn’t have a replacement. Now, that regularly happens when I put down a tool and forget to return it to its place. I will definitely try to minimize the problem.
Most of the Z axis is now assembled. I manually jogged the axis up and down and there doesn’t seem to be too much excess binding or friction. My next challenge is to complete the timing belt assembly that I will need for the X-axis (or gantry axis). This was needed for a couple of reasons, but mainly due to the design, and I ran out of room on the axis. I’ve already begun the assembly, but I may need to either add a belt tensioner (via another pulley, or adjust the holes in the plate so that the motor can be pulled to tighten the belt.
@George_Allen a sloppy tip fit with snap rings can lead to a loss of control. That’s why they have different tips. But that doesn’t mean a tip kit covers all snap rings. So don’t be afraid to go custom. It’s easy. You could probably even flip tips around and grind on the blank side.
I did it by chucking bits of hex key into my mill chuck and grinding it while spinning with a Dremel type tool. But for that to work right your spins have to oppose each other. Otherwise you get bounce instead of pull. The one wheel will try to ride on the work as opposed to digging into it. Just some bush logic that one learns over time.
Here’s some custom tips I ground for a pair of my King Dicks
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/attachments/snap-ring-plier-tips-snapringtips.jpg-20242d1508799373
@Paul_Frederick “those are more popularly known as snap rings.” Not interested in popularity - interested in accuracy. They’re circlips - as in, they clip round the circumference of a cylinder.
Dumbing down for the convenience of parts department staff isn’t the engineer’s job.
@Mike_Thornbury luckily I am not an engineer. I get the job done.
@Paul_Frederick I was under no illusion that you were.
I was just visiting our favorite store (somewhat jokingly) and they had a set you could buy of all sizes and they called them snap rings…The store was harbor freight